Experiments in Elegance

Vienna, Day 4

2012-02-08T15:30:00.000-05:00

We've been having more days and more classes, but I find that classes are not very good photographic opportunities. On the bright side, we did listen to Hannelore give a neat talk on the history of the Kor, a Hungarian dance we've been learning. It has a long political history linked to the history of Hungary (with the Kor being a more popular dance when Hungary was well liked, and then falling out of favor at bad political moments). Unfortunately the talk was mostly in German, so I understood very little, but I do understand pictures. These are from a book she put out on display. First of all, doesn't this look like a wild party? We've used the funny hand-on-the-head position that some of these men have for the dance in class.

Also, is this or is this not a picture of a man holding a goat which is smoking a pipe? Hilarious (though I have no reason to believe that is really what's going on).

Now this is a cool picture from 1860 of a ballroom scene, but a lot of the women are wearing fancy ballgowns inspired by Hungarian national dress. Notice the shape and lacing of the bodices, and the pretty lace aprons on the skirts. It reminds me very much of Empress Sisi's Hungarian inspired dress, don't you think?

We also had an informal evening dance party. The theme was revolution, but we just wore our earliest regency vaguely french revolution-ish dresses to make packing easy. Also I look demented in pictures, which is a shame. So instead, make sure to focus on the EXPLODING CAKE! Pyrotechnics are fun!

Vienna, Day 3

2012-02-07T04:36:00.007-05:00

We had dance class today, and a nice quiet night after that. All I really wanted to share right now is this lovely sign from the tram.

What? You didn't catch it. Here's a closer view.

Yes, this chair is reserved for pregnant women, parents with small children, the disabled, and Sigmund Freud. He lived in Vienna, you know.

Vienna, Day 2

2012-02-06T12:37:00.001-05:00

Day two was full of walking in the frigid cold, and museums. I love museums, and my computer is currently choking on the hundreds of pictures I took in the Kunsthistorisches (Art, but we really only did the antiquities wing this time) and Heeresgeschichtliches (military history!) museum. Most of the pictures are terrible and covered with glare, so don't get too excited. In fact, I really don't have time to go through and identify all the important ones, so those detailed blog posts (on wonderfully drool-worthy delicious uniforms... covered with glare) will have to wait. For now, here is the quick run-down of the day. We started walking. Hilarious things we passed included a Rock Pub! I don't know why this is so entertaining, but it is indeed.

We walked by this sign, which of course made me think of my friend Adrian the Maya Archaeologist.

We walked by a cake decorating shop, and the word "zucherblumen" was greatly entertaining.

"Intensive kinder mamma-baby" sounded like something crazy, but then we decided they were different types of available yoga classes.

The art museum was very grand indeed.

It has a lot of neat Egyptain stuff, but the best were the animal mummies. My favorite was the giant crocodile and baby crocodiles, but Julia really liked the monkey-in-a-monkey.

There was too much amazing art for my pictures to do it any justice. So I'll just show you my collection of ancient Greek croquet pictures. I'm sure those aren't really croquet mallets, but I had a surprising amount of fun pretending they were!

I promise pictures of uniforms later... really. Here is a really cool plane for now.

Vienna, Day 1

2012-02-05T02:07:00.000-05:00

Oh, did I forget to mention that I was going to Vienna? That's what I get for being too busy! Anyway, Mother was invited to teach at dance historian Hannelore Unfried's fantastic dance week in Vienna, Austria, and I am here to help her. Apparently every February all the people of Vienna go on vacation for the same week, and while they are all off skiing or traveling Hannelore holds her wonderful vintage dance week in the semi-deserted city. This is Mother's fifth time attending, and my third, and Julia is with us though I cannot recall how many times she has been. Right now it is 6:50 in the morning in Vienna, so they are sleeping and I cannot ask, but it is also 12:50 AM in Boston. I don't know what time will show at the bottom of this blog post, then. Anyway, stay tuned for rather better stories about Vienna and the dance week, but as of this morning I can only tell you about traveling yesterday.
Yesterday was about a million hours long. We got packed and on an evening plane in Boston, flew over to England, then changed in Heathrow to a flight for Vienna. By the time we went to sleep early in the evening in Vienna, I'd been up all night in America. At least now I'm on an early-bird-but-not-out-of-the-realm-of-possibility schedule for here. Traveling is so complicated! Anyway, my first important observation that I hoped to share is this:

Apparently, women in England wear much cuter skirts than those in America, where all the bathroom gender indicators wear ugly triangles. I much prefer the cute bell-shaped poof of a skirt. Of course, I guess the other possibility is that British women have plump bottoms. Or that the airport is just trying to be interesting (which conclusion the square toilets and retro-futuristic shuttle all conspire to support). But I think I will maintain that it is a statement on fashion.

My second observation is that traveling is terrifying. We got to Vienna and pulled two bags off the conveyor belt (because they were our bags, you know!). Then we waited for the third. And continued waiting. Then as we watched the abandoned broken-off wheel of what was once a rolling red suitcase go by for the third time, we realized that our bag was gone! At which point I started calculating exactly how many hours of sewing that bag represented, containing six ballgowns and three day dresses, plus underwear. EEK! Eventually they tracked down the bag, waiting in Heathrow for the next flight to Vienna. It should be on its way to us soon, so all is well.

My third observation is that Krapfen are magical. Upon arrival, we decided that we could not rest until we had our Krapfen for the day, because you haven't experienced Vienna until you've eaten Krapfen. They are basically just donuts, which in a world of Viennese pastry may not seem special at all, but I assure you they are. The key is that instead of being filled with a sickly sweet red jelly that could belong to any number of berries, Krapfen are filled with the most wonderful, tangy, and delicately sweet apricot filling. Delicious! Apricots are a Vienna thing, and Krapfen filled with tasty apricots are the best! These ones came from Aida, a chain of bakeries around the city, but we'll have plenty more I promise.

Event Announcement - The 1812 Ball

2012-01-04T21:12:00.000-05:00

America declares war on England, Napoleon invades Russia, and everyone dances!

It is time! Registration is open! Go register now, or be prepared to miss out on the best ball ever! Seriously, we did this event for the first time last year and almost sold out. It is perfect for anyone who likes the Regency, Federal, or Napoleonic era, plus we get to celebrate the year 1812 in 2012! Get your details and buy your tickets at the website. http://www.vintagedancers.org/2012ball1812.html

The 1812 Ball

Saturday, February 18, 2012

Salem Old Town Hall,

32 Derby Square, Salem, MA

Music by The Ad Hoc Regency Band

Precepting by Antonia Pugliese

Adults $25

Students (with id) $15

What is Swans' Down, Exactly?

2011-12-20T14:41:00.030-05:00

I have recently been obsessed with items of clothing or accessories trimmed with swans' down, and I have been inspired to make some items like that. In the comments section (which I always read and sometimes actually reply to), I was asked how I'd do this. Would I use marabou boas, or actually fluffly little bits of down? How do you handle such tiny feathers? Well, this is a great question, because I really should explain what swans down is! Let us start in the 19th century, and use my favorite source for fashion matters - Godey's Magazine. I found an 1855 article called "Furs for the Ladies; and Where They Come From." While this article is mostly about furs, it includes this line:

"Substitutes for fur have been found in the plumage of birds. Thus, swan' s-down, goose-down, egret-down, and the silvery plumage of the grebe, are convertible to ladies' use. The down from the egret is so costly, that only four sets have been made during a century, the last having been fabricated in Paris for the great Exhibition in Hyde Park."

Add to this the fact that I've found references to using down of different widths, and you can probably guess that they don't mean boas. In fact, I believe that swans down is a lot more like fur, where the hairs are still attached to the animal skin, except this time we're talking about feathers still attached to the bird skin. So here you have garments trimmed with only a band of down, probably cut in strips from a larger bird pelt...

But you could also use a wide piece of down to make an entire muff!

And here are two pink coats and one cape, trimmed with varying widths of down.

Now, for all practical applications, I have no intention of skinning swans. Marabou boas are made from tiny down feathers, though I think they come from turkeys (it is certainly not swans). They are easy to find, cheap to procure, and convenient to sew on to garments. So I am personally sticking to the boa approach for my faux-swan's down, but it is good to know what you are mimicking!

1920s Rhinestone Shoe Heels

2011-12-11T11:33:00.004-05:00

Fezziwig's Ball was yesterday, so I should owe you pictures. But mother has most of the good ones, so you have to wait! I also owe you pictures from the Dickens German Cotillion performance last week, and the Salem Light Infantry Levee and Ball before that. I am the worst. But since I am too tired to fix all that the night after a ball, let me distract you with something shiny!

I was browsing about on the Augusta Auctions website one day, when I came across these absolutely drool-worthy shoes heels from the 1920s. The title for them is "Cream & Blue Jeweled Shoe Heels, 1920s" and the description says they are a wood shank with pearlized celluloid overlay, decorated with rhinestones and brass beading.

Similarly, the also had "2 Pair Black Jeweled Shoe Heels, c. 1920s," made of wood with celluloid overlay and rhinestone/brass beading inserts.

And then "Aqua Jeweled Shoe Heels, 1920s," again made of the same materials.

Wow. This is a thing. A beautiful, fun, sparkly thing. The Kyoto Institute also has some awfully cute ones. AND LOOK HOW MANY OF THEM. These are so amazing, and so varied. Different colors of celluloid, different colors of rhinestones, varied patterns and designs... I love them so much.

Too bad they're all detached from their shoes, right? Well, let's look for some more examples then! These appear to belong to the Bata shoe museum. I absolutely love the use of colored crystals, and the fact that they get repeated on the shoe itself. These are fantastic.

Or there are these ones from Shoe Icon, which have a crazy pattern, swirly gold straps, and sparkly rhinestone heels. Awesome.

These pink ones are lovely too! They are even for sale here. I mean, you could actually go BUY these shoes. Wow.

Or you could buy this pair on ebay here. I love these because they show that you can wear a sparkly silver heel on an un-rhinestoned solid colored not sliver shoe (made of green velvet, no less). Amazing.

And then of course, sometimes you need an alternative to subtle... like all over rhinestone shoes!

I have a dremmel... and a bunch of point-backed swarovsky rhinestones... Quick! Somebody fine me a pair of pumps to destroy! Also, let me know if you have a good idea for how to fake pearlized celluloid... hmm...

When One Tiara Is Not Enough

2011-12-02T12:20:00.000-05:00

Sometimes you need a really spectacular, jaw dropping, sparkly, incredible, gorgeous tiara. And then there are those times where one tiara won't do the trick. In that case, I suggest you take a page out of Empress Josephine's book and wear TWO TIARAS AT ONCE. Or at the very least, a tiara and a fabulous matching comb, or a band and a tiara... or even a tiara in front and a crown in back. WOAH! It actually never occurred to me that you could do this, and then I thought it was perhaps just and odd thing about Josephine. But I have now concluded that this trend can be identified in the Regency period not just in Josephine, not just in other Bonapartes, but in lots of people! Or at least royal people totally decked out in court dress. Observe!
First, Josephine Bonaparte: these are the images I most think of.

This one is interesting too... a big band, and two other somethings in the back?

This is obviously a tiara and a comb, but it is still pretty cool.

Not sure here, but the stand up pearls in the back suggest more than one tiara-object going on.

Look! Tiara plus crown. Oh yeah.

And this one is also a tiara plus crown, I think, even though it is really difficult to see. Not sure how to make it clearer, but I'm pretty sure that's what is happening.

But now let us look at someone who is not Josephine sporting a similar look. Awkwardly enough, it is Maria Louise, Napoleon's second wife. Nice tiara and crown.

And here is Marie Pauline Bonaparte:

And let us not forget Hortense Bonaparte. The first one is quite subtle, but there is totally something far back on her head with green gems in it. For the other one, she certainly has a band of some sort in front and a small tiara further back on her head. Cool.

But it is not just the Bonapartes who wear this double-crown look. Here is Empress Maria Anna Carolina (yeah, I'm using some things that are definitely later than regency... but they are such cool examples that it can't be helped).

Anna Maria 7th Duchess of Bedford.

Maria Isabel de Borbon.

Queen Teresa of Bavaria, who wins my vote for favorite tiara plus crown combo. Not only that, but she is totally mixing gold and silver, which I am always nervous to do. Very nice.

Karoline Auguste von Bayern.

Queen Desideria.

Princess Auguste-Amalie of Bavaria.

Caroline Murat, one that is dim but really looks to me like there is a second hair ornament in the back, and one that is just too complicated to be a single tiara, though I can't make out the parts and it seems asymmetrical (like a tiara, a comb, and a crown? I just don't know now!).

So isn't that cool? I want to wear piles and piles of jewelry!

Fringe Tiaras as Bodice Jewelry

2011-12-01T05:46:00.004-05:00

Fringe tiaras are beautiful and fabulous. They look like this, and have been favorites of royalty throughout the 19th century and beyond. Sometimes they have rounded points, or pointy points, or two types of interlocking spikes... but they all have this approximate Russian-kokoshnik-esque shape. You can wear them perched on your head, or if you're from the 1920s slide them down to the forehead like a bandeau.

A lot of these tiaras can be worn either as tiaras or necklaces. Extra bang for your buck, right? Actually, convertible tiaras are surpisingly common, and you can find all kinds of cool things (like tiaras where you can pop the jewels out and they are mounted on clips or broach backs, or the tiara breaks into pieces to be worn as a set of bracelets and rings... all sorts of things!). But since I'm focusing on fringe tiaras, let's stay on topic. I think it is neat that the nature of the many-pointed-pieces lets the tiara spread out to lie flat as a necklace. It is very simple and clever.

But wait, there's more! I think this is totally neat and brilliant. Here is Queen Alexandra wearing what I believe is one or two fringe tiaras... around her waist, attached to the pointed bottom of her bodice. Like an amazing sparkly spikey belt or girdle! HOW COOL IS THAT?

And here is a picture of Lilly Langtry, doing what looks to me like the same thing. Awesome!

This is different, but here is are two cool dresses with beaded trim, applied to create a similar effect. I guess this is what you do if you can't afford an amazing fringe tiara. Oh, I need one! Or rather, two (to go around my waist, obviosly!).

Event Announcement - Fezziwig's Ball 2011

2011-11-30T13:03:00.001-05:00

Make sure to buy your tickets now... this event could easily sell out like last year, and you don't want to miss it!

You are Cordially Invited to
Fezziwig’s Ball

Saturday, December 10, 2011
7 pm lantern procession, 8 pm Ball
at Salem’s Old Town Hall
32 Derby Square, Salem, MA

Live Music by Spare Parts
Sponsored by
The Commonwealth Vintage Dancers
and
The Institute for Public History
at Gordon College

ADMISSION
Adult $35; Students (with id) $15
$5 surcharge for Tickets purchased at the door

For all the details, or to make reservations, go to the Commonwealth Vintage Dancers website: http://vintagedancers.org/fezziwig.html

1885 Flamingo Fancy Dress

2011-11-29T12:45:00.000-05:00

I love fancy dress, and there is no way this is not a fancy dress costume. It is an 1885 painting of La Marquis D'Hervey Saint-Denys by Raimundo De MadrazoY Garreta. And the important thing is that this woman has a flamingo on her head. Oh yeah. I also really like her fixed flamingo fan. Although perhaps it is a scepter, because I think a lot of fancy dress outfits include those. I should probably do a post on pretty fixed fans, because I've been inspired by those lately. We shall see...

Winter Sports Wear in 1922

2011-11-24T09:24:00.000-05:00

Finally, something for men who want to dress well. In fact, I was looking for something relating to women's ice skating clothes, but I happened upon this passage that was so charming I couldn't help but share it. I wish men actually thought of clothing this way. I am just in love with the statement that, given how lovely an ice skating scene is, "It is downright perverse to attach oneself to this scene without a bright necktie, gay muffler, or colored shirt." I yearn to be the girl in the orange sweater or, rather more likely given my color preferences, the scarlet coat. I wish everyone would arrange their clothing "with an eye to the picturesque." That is your homework today.

To be practical for a moment, this passage comes from a 1922 Vanity Fair, which I found available on google docs (how fabulous is that?) here. Check out page 76 to see the rest.

"There is no wardrobe for winter sports other than that dictated by common sense. The activities of winter sports require warm, but not heavy or cumbersome clothing. Therefore a pair of knickers, a flannel shirt, a comfortable loose fitting jacket with a slip-on sweater, or some woolly type of waistcoat, are the things suited to these activities. As the articles mentioned are a part of every well-equipped man's wardrobe, there remains only the necessity of assembling them with an eye to the picturesque and to the gaiety befitting the occasion. There are no more decorative sports in the world than skating, skiing, tobogganing, etc. When one comes onto an ice pond, tucked away in some corner of the winter country side of a late winter afternoon, where young people are skating, the scene appears more brilliant than anything on the stage of a modern revue. There is something about the snow-clad landscape that cries for a red tam o'shanter or a green muffler. The girl one wants to skate with most is the one wearing the orange sweater or the scarlet coat. It is downright perverse to attach oneself to this scene without a bright necktie, gay muffler, or colored shirt. This is the day of bright colors in men's clothes. The correct sport shirt is made of a tropical weather flannel in bright blues, copper red, orange, salmon, or lemon yellow. A sweater, such as the Prince of Wales wears, is a riot in color and design, and is now the smart man's taste in place of the drab colored thing of yesterday. Even for town wear, the newest muffler is a striped affair of two or more bright colors. The country gentleman on Long Island resembles the Canadian woodsman more than his former self."

Polish Swan's Down

2011-11-23T10:01:00.000-05:00

Apparently there is something Polish about swan's down trimming. Yesterday, when I talked about swan's down shoes, I brought up this Polish costume, with red boots trimmed in down.

But wait, there's more. This is from December 1863, and isn't it lovely?

THE POLISH JACKET.

This stylish costume may be made of any material. We would, however, suggest black silk as a pretty contrast to the swan's-down with which it is trimmed. It is merely a pointed waist, trimmed with down. A braided band trimmed with swan's-down is then laid on to form the jacket and girdle, giving the lower part of the waist the appearance of a vest.

And here is an October 1864 Polish Coat.

Fig. 12. Polish jacket, made of black cloth braided with white silk braid, and trimmed with swan's-down.

Interesting, no?

Swans Down Shoes

2011-11-22T09:29:00.002-05:00

Apparently in Madame Bovary (1856), her lover gives her a pair of pink satin shoes trimmed in swan down. How delicious. Since I haven't actually read this, I don't know if the description is any more specific than that, really. Anyway, I wonder what those shoes would be like...

Would they be like these boudoir slippers (Dec 1854), so lovely that Godey's hesitates to publish a description of them?

(The fine print: The inimitable articles which we have pictured are so lovely, comfortable, and becoming, that we almost hesitate to offer them to our readers, lest many, whose distant or inaccessible residences may render their procurement impossible, will sigh for them. Designed expressly for the boudoir, they are constructed of delicately tinted silks or satins— the particular ones here delineated being respectively a rose-hued satin and pea-green silk of the richest description. They are ornamented with rosettes and that loveliest of all trimmings, the snowlike swan's-down, or equally pure ermine, which is set off by the needleworked lining, which, like the outside, is of taffeta, and also quilted in exquisite workmanship. The inside soles are cushioned, so that the fair wearer may as softly tread as we would have each footstep of a beloved friend— and we mean each and all of our subscribers by that word— through this not-carpeted-with-velvet world.)

Might they be more like these morning slippers, perhaps?

(Ladies' morning slipper, made of blue velvet, embroidered with silver, trimmed around the top with swan's down, and lined with blue quilted satin.)

Or like these Polish red boots, bordered in swans down (November 1863)? By the way, if you didn't know, I have a particular affinity for red boots, so I am quite drawn to these... too bad they are part of a fancy dress costume, not that I'm sure that will dissuade me for long.

(The Polish dress consists of an underskirt of green bordered with scarlet. The corsage and short sleeves are of green, and the long sleeves scarlet. The upper skirt and point are of purple, edged with swan's-down. The sash is of scarlet, with black ends. Boots red, and bordered with swan's-down. Cap scarlet, bordered with swan's-down, and a black feather at the side.

The Louis XIVth costume consists of a petticoat of white satin, with a lace flounce on the edge of the skirt. The overdress is a very rich pink satin, trimmed with roses and quillings of silk. The hair is powdered, and dressed with a small wreath on the left side of the head)

Of course, although the red boots appeal to me greatly, it is possible that they would look to Santa-ish to the modern eye. Perhaps I am better off with white satin boots trimmed in swans down, as in this September 1864 description of a fancy dress costume:

“Snow.” A short white satin skirt, edged with swan's-down, and long crystal beads, imitating icicles. The low bodice is in the Louis XV. form; it is pointed, and made of white satin crossed with a band of swan's-down. In the centre, as an emblem of hope and spring, a tuft of half opened primroses is fastened. The hair is powdered, and underneath the left ear is fastened another tuft of primroses. A necklace of large crystal beads, with long drops in the form of icicles, is worn round the throat. The boots are of white satin, trimmed with swan's down.

Indeed, this "snow" costume sounds entirely appealing. But short of that, I would certainly not sneeze at a pair of pink satin shoes trimmed in swans down. In fact, I might have to make a pair.

Ice Blue Swans Down Outfits

2011-11-21T16:21:00.001-05:00

My most recent obsession is swans down. It is so fluffy! It is like fur, but possibly even better (and I do really like fur). I am completely in love with this 1870s blue quilted skating waistcoat (Manchester Galleries), which is obviously trimmed in swans down! In fact, I vow to make this. Solemnly so.

This 1885 dress is also lovely (Met). I adore how the train is trimmed all round with down, and how it is gathered up in a bow at the back. Trains, butt bows, and down trimming? I am so inspired!

Fancy Dress Airplane!

2011-11-15T09:53:00.000-05:00

Oh wow. I have a new favorite fancy dress costume ever. Unfortunately, one would need some pretty specific circumstances to get to wear it, since it is so obviously ragtime (1912) that you could really only wear it to a ragtime fancy dress ball. But oh, isn't the airplane headdress marvelous? And oh, don't you want plane wing epaulettes? Not to mention shoes with wings and a propeller bust! I love it.

Russian Court Trains

2011-10-25T20:50:00.000-04:00

This is my new favorite picture (it is an 1838 painting of women in the Winter Palace). Let's analyze why.

Actually, it is a small part of this larger picture, which has fabulously dashing uniforms.I love them.

But back to the trains! I am not, in fact, super interested in Russian court trains - they are absolutely beautiful, but not the sort of thing I have a lot of opportunity to wear, so not something I am planning to make very soon. But I am interested in court trains generally, and I am working on one now (I'll write about it when I actually make any progress). The reason I think this painting is so amazing is because the women are not posed. Whenever I see a painting from early in the century, or a photograph from late in the century, women in court trains are perfectly posed, with their trains artfully arranged in a swoop around their feet or carefully spread behind them. Like so.

This is fine if you are sitting still while someone takes a picture or paints a portrait of you. But realistically, what do you do at a ball or a party? Do you carefully let your train drag behind you? We all know this gets your train dirty, but I suppose you don't care if you are some duchess with a slew of seamstresses who can re-line the thing before its next wearing. But it also means your train won't lie as beautifully flat as you think. Seriously, how do you maneuver in one of these? Well, this more candid-style painting shows these women with their trains draped over their arms. Brilliant! Now when I make my court train, I won't be afraid to carry it around when I don't feel like letting it drag.

1860s Ball at Ocher Court

2011-10-22T11:02:00.001-04:00

I've been pretty busy living real life (as a senior in college, eek!). Here are more old pictures I should have put up back in August when Newport happened. Better late than never! I wore my gold stripe ballgown. I absolutely love how shiny and dramatic it is.

1890s Oak Leaf Ballgown

2011-09-30T11:53:00.000-04:00

I knew I had better pictures of this, I just couldn't find them. Sorry, I was being silly. Here are more pictures of my fabulous new 1890s dress, because I love it that much.

1890s Ball at Roger Williams Casino

2011-09-30T11:45:00.000-04:00

This is the first event of Newport 2011 that I'll go over. Yes, that was back in August, but I never remember how onerous a task it is to go through hundreds of pictures and choose two or three. The ball was lovely, but I'm really here to talk about sewing! This was the debut of three new dresses. First of all, Mother wore a brand new ballgown made of wonderfully vibrant red fabric (in person), with flocked black designs. It was an obnoxious crispy sort of artificial fabric, but it actually looked really good. This was a last minute bodice to go with a skirt I had made for me but never actually worn. My very favorite part is those fabulous sleeves she made in dreamy drippy drapey black velvet. Mmmm. The pictures are a little dark for seeing any detail, but I will just assure you that the fabric looks fabulous in person, and of course the tiara makes the outfit.

Julia wore a dress that we started for me years and years ago. Since I've gotten much more into sewing lately, I decided to resurrect it for her. Unfortunately, she was away at her fancy pre-college art program, so she couldn't try it on. When the day of the ball came, it fit all wrong. Her dramatic and utterly royal-looking Watteau train (yeah, I really have seen 1890s dresses with those... how crazy cool is that?) was an emergency addition made with the leftover rose velvet meant for trimming the dress. I am obscenely proud of my emergency under-pressure hand-sewing skills. I think that now we are both too in love with the train to remove it, so this dress will just have to stay this way. Doesn't she look like a princess?

Finally, my brand new Oak Leaf dress was my proudest moment. I love this dress so much. It is a gorgeous brown acetate that practically glows, embroidered all over with oak leaves. For the bodice, I made a simple sleeveless bodice in deep brown velvet, and added little lace sleeves. Then I painstakingly cut out oak leaves from leftover fabric and sewed them down all over the bodice and onto the lace sleeves. The really do twist and twine like they grew that way. I love this dress beyond all reason. I thought my pink dress from last year (covered with embroidered gold and pink satin flowers) was worthy of being a Worth, but I think I actually prefer this one now.

Event Announcement - Scarlet Pimpernel Ball

2011-09-18T14:59:00.001-04:00

The Scarlet Pimpernel Ball
Saturday, September 24, 2011, 7:30 pm
First Congregational Church, 11 Garden St., Cambridge, MA
Music by the Ad Hoc Waltz and Quadrille Band.
$25 general / $15 student

They seek him here, they seek him there, those Frenchies seek him everywhere – but if they really want to find him, they should be searching in Cambridge at the Scarlet Pimpernel Ball. Join us for a glorious mash-up of regency and ragtime eras, celebrating the French Revolution setting of Baroness Orczy’s early twentieth century novel. Dances will be drawn from both eras, so expect romantic waltzes, bouncy one-steps, and sprightly country dances. Likewise, costumes may range from foppish regency tailcoats to Gatsby-esque suits, from elaborate powdered wigs to sleek bobs, and from ragtime ballgowns to angry peasant clothing. Intrigue, adventure, and dancing! This is a job for the Scarlet Pimpernel!

Register now at http://www.vintagedancers.org/2011pimpernel.html to avoid the $5 at-the-door surcharge!

Irene Castle's Flaming Red Turkish Trousers

2011-08-12T17:28:00.001-04:00

I actually wrote a a paper about Turkish trousers for school (and bloomers, and dress reform, blah blah blah... there was a good academic reason for it, not just a costuming whim). Actually, I also made an outfit and turned that in as part of the project, and I even wore it to Newport, but I haven't gotten the pictures onto my computer yet... I will just have to owe you and post it soon.

One of my favorite things that I found while writing this paper was this description in Vernon and Irene Castle's Ragtime Revolution (found here on googlebooks): "A group of Cornell professors' wives told of their shock when one of Irene's monkeys invaded their tea party, and recalled Irene herself rising at the ungodly hour of noon and traipsing around in 'a flaming pair of red Turkish trousers.'"

I want a pair! What a great description. None of these are red, but check out these lovely Turkish Trouser ensembles for inspiration. I think they are fabulously subtle. Still, I think that one day I must make an absurd pair that is "flaming red" in Irene's honor.

Event Announcement: Picnic in the Public Gardens 8/13

2011-08-11T10:09:00.004-04:00

Come to the Boston Public Gardens this Saturday at 11:30 and have a picnic with me! This is an informal event, so no RSVP or admission is required. Really, I am going to be having a picnic with some friends, and you could be one of them! Bring a sandwich (or buy one - there is a Boloco really close by), or bring cookies to share. Wear your most picturesque picnic outfit - anything 19th or early 20th century would be perfect, but modern clothing is fine if it is pretty. Please no jeans or sneakers. We'll be sitting under some shady tree, probably within sight of the swan pond, so just show up and walk around until you see the people in pretty dresses. There will be stories, treats, nice people to talk to, and perhaps even dancing. I could even bring croquet if there is a demand. See you there!

Walking on Broken Glass

2011-07-28T15:07:00.003-04:00

First of all, HUGH LAURIE.

Second of all, why is she so upset? She has Hugh Laurie. Third of all, her feet probably just hurt from running down all those stairs... the guy knows how to teleport or use the elevator, which is faster anyway. WAIT A SECOND, is that Prince George?Oh, wait... it's Hugh Laurie!

Fur Boas of the Nineteenth Century

2011-07-27T09:27:00.011-04:00

Here we are in the dead of summer, and I've developed an interest in fur. Fashion knows no reason! Actually, I think the issue is that I've been watching long miniseries set in Russia (most especially War and Peace, but a few others too), and everyone just looks so good in those furs. Anyway, on a whim I started looking for early pictures of fur boas. I feel sort of weird about those (are they scarves? stoles? collars on steroids? Where does one draw the line?), but no matter how you cut it I've found many more pictures than I would have guessed I would, so I'm collecting them here in roughly chronological order. Get ready!

So to start off really early, here is an 18th century portrait of Caroline von Baden.I've seen these cute ice skating pictures before, but I never really noticed that the women are wearing fur boas. Cool!Here is an 1805 Ingres portrait.And another regency portrait - I adore this one!Here is one from 1823.This is a hilarious caricature from 1829. Look! Her "great boa tippet" is a boa constrictor. Tee hee.This is a picture of Fanny Essler's sister (I wrote a little about her while on my gypsy ballerina kick - she was a very famous ballerina). Knowing that, it must be approximately from the 1830s.With that dumb hair and those crazy sleeves, this must be 30s too.Here is an 1835s fashion plate with a stunningly long boa.This one is 1835-1836 and not only does she have an impressive boa, but her turban is amazing.Here is Maria A. Bek in 1840 by Karl Brullov, with and without a kid. This one is so lovely.1842, another very neat portrait.1848. This is the only picture where I've seen a man wearing one. Crazy.Ok, so this is getting a little late (1910), but it would be a fine look for Titanic events (the anniversary is coming up, you know!).Ooh, and this, 1914.And 1916.Another 1914... I love the white fur AND sparkles!1918, but her name is Antonia too! Princess Antonia of Luxembourg, to be precise.Oh well. Here are a few more early 20th century fur boas, then.

Dick Turpin on Horrible History

2011-07-26T11:44:00.003-04:00

When I was young, I went to England for a week with my family. While there, I discovered the coolest book series for 12 year olds EVER. It was called "Horrible Histories," and it was these really funny illustrated books fully of silly or absurd facts about different historical time periods. They all had great alliterative titles (like the Ruthless Romans or the Terrible Tudors). They were really charming and silly books.If you pay any attention to this blog, you may have noticed that I also adore Adam Ant, a fabulous 1980s British pop star. Of particular note is his song "Stand and Deliver," a great song with an amazing music video starring Adam And as a fashion-conscious romantic highwayman. Fantastic!

Just recently, I've discovered that the Horrible Histories have become a television show! Which features skits ranging from gross (clearly aimed at the 12 year old audience) to absolutely brilliant. Among the very best? Check out this music video about Dick Turpin, a totally unromanticized look at the life of a highwayman.
For comparison, here is Stand and Deliver. Oh, this is no accident.

The Ball Supper

2011-07-22T11:07:00.003-04:00

I have just stumbled across this painting by Adolph Menzel. I think it is really lovely, and I find it fascinating to see everyone balancing their plates and eating, not sitting at a table. I especially love the gentlemen in fabulous uniforms, slightly bent over and eating while standing. What is between the legs of that guy in the front? Is it his hat? I suppose that if you're going to hold a plate you can't very well carry your hat, but it is so comical!

Sparkly 1890s Bows

2011-07-19T13:38:00.003-04:00

A friend of mine is beginning to plan out a totally sparkly and fabulous 1890s dress. She asked for a little help with inspiration pictures, and here is what I came up with. If anyone has any other pictures of beautiful dresses with sparkly bow motifs, let me know! Anyway, here we go.

This one is a little too early (1888), but otherwise perfect. I love the hyper-stylized bows with super-sparkle. Pretty pretty.
This one only has only one sparkly bow, and it is black (I believe she is planning something with those brilliant white swarovski rhinestones), but it is really nice anyway. According to the Met it is 1892-1894, and OF COURSE it is a Worth.
I was already in love with this dress, so even though it isn't a bow motif, I still thought of it anyway. You could just as easily do this with bows as with flowers, and I love all the sparkle!
This is just for fun - I actually think it is kind of unattractive, and it is certainly not what she was looking for. But that is one dramatically large bow motif at the bottom!

Regency Wheat Sheaf Fever

2011-07-14T13:31:00.000-04:00

I think wheat sheaves are super pretty. So imagine my delight at finding all these fabulous fashion plates which use wheat as decoration! Whether you stick it in your hair or on your bonnet, what a lovely accessory. Some of these are obviously a little late to call regency, but oh well. I am very inspired to incorporate a wheat motif into a regency ensemble.

Ballet Hussars

2011-07-13T12:48:00.006-04:00

In Swan Lake, Prince Siegfried is supposed to get married. In fact, there is a very Cinderella-ish ball with bunches of princesses, and he is supposed to choose one. In the Tchaikovsky ballet, one of these princesses is Hungarian, and there is a Hungarian song during the ball for her accompanying Hungarians to dance to. There is a film of the American Ballet Theater dancing Swan Lake in 2005. The costumes generally are beautiful and fascinating, but the coolest costuming moment for me was the Hungarian dance. Look! They are Hussars! Admittedly, they are odd ballet Hussars, but enough of the elements are recognizible anyway.
You may already know that I have a bit of a thing for red shoes, and red dance shoes particularly. I wear little red dance boots on a very regular basis. So imagine my adoration of these fabulous red Hessian dance boots! With tassels and everything! Then, of course, there is all that decorative knot work on the pants, and impressive braid on the dolman, and even a peliesse (although I admit that the fabric choice is very odd for a Hussar). I don't know who costumed this show, but I absolutely adore it, especially the ballet Hussars!
I think I am developing a fairly serious obsession for Swan Lake and for Hussars. Both at once... this is too much! Add in my undeniable obsession for red dance shoes and... oh my!

Hat, Not a Hat

2011-07-12T15:36:00.008-04:00

Today we're going to play a fun little game. I have no idea who this girl is or why there are so many fabulous pictures of her in spectacular hats, but I think it is wonderful. I am personally suffering from an excess of hat inspiration at the moment, so I understand that hats make us do stupid things. I also understand that some Edwardian hats are just dumb looking (but delightfully so!). Nonetheless, I think you will have to agree with me that not all of these really count as hats. Are you ready to play? It's time for, "HAT or NOT A HAT!"

Excuse me, Miss, but you appear to be wearing a bundt pan on your head!

Jane Eyre's Amazing Bonnet

2011-06-28T11:07:00.004-04:00

I recently got to see the new Jane Eyre movie. It was quite pretty, but when you come down to it Jane Eyre is just not the story for me. I prefer something brighter and more cheerful. Like X-men. But I do have to give Jane Eyre points for the costumes (sorry Magneto, but I just prefer silly facial hair with a poet's shirt to the dumb helmet and jumpsuit). There were some pretty nice things throughout, but only one thing that struck me so hard I wanted to cry. Jane's bonnet at the end of the movie is heart-stoppingly jaw-droppingly painfully exquisitely lovely. I WANT IT.

Mystery Headdress and Lombardi National Costume

2011-06-08T11:04:00.007-04:00

Do you ever stumble across something fascinating, but since you don't know what you are looking at you can't actually research it? I've been fascinated by this mystery headdress in the Met costume database because it basically looked like it was composed of three dozen spoon handles, half a dozen absinthe spoons, and two metal darning eggs. Seriously weird. Unfortunately, all the database could tell me about it was that it was made of silver and belonged somewhere from 1700-1906 (meaning they did not know, but the museum got it in 1906, so it must have been older than that). In fact, they got me even more stuck by saying it was Swiss, which I'm not sure I believe anymore. So for a long time this was just a mystery to me. Then one day I was looking at portraits and I found this painting of Princess Charlotte of Bavaria, later Empress Carlota, wearing "Lombardi National Dress." Ahah! So it is some kind of Italian folk headdress. That I can believe. I also got lucky and found this one at the V&A. It is silver and actually dated to the 1860s, made by Carlo Pirotta and from Milan. It also might be called a "Raggiera," and though I don't really know what that means I think it is something to do with being radial like a sunburst. What I find odd is that these are loose pins - since I can't imagine trying to arrange all those in your hair securely, I'm guessing that this is just an un-assembled version and that they usually are affixed to each other before they fix to the head. But even so - how do they fix to the head?I then found this website which has a couple of old pictures of women wearing these headdresses, including one picture from behind. Score!
And then I located another image of "Costume Lombardi," which is really very pretty. So I still don't really understand this headdress, but I have enough clues to pronounce this case closed.

1860s Tartan Sash

2011-06-07T14:30:00.004-04:00

My best and most 19th century friend has recently returned from a year studying in Edinburgh. Obviously, I am thrilled to have her back. Because she's been spending all that time in Scotland, she has developed an obsession with tartan, so now every time I come across tartan things I think of her. A while ago I sent her this fashion plate of an 1860s woman in a sash. I thought it was a cool way to incorporate trendy tartan into an outfit without doing a great deal of work (although don't underestimate the coolness of doing a great deal of work - she is planning some really crazy cool stuff). Anyway, just now I stumbled across an antique clothing dealer with this sash on her website (Meg Andrews, here). It's an actual tartan sash from the mid-nineteenth century. How cool is that?

Casual Steampunk at Steampunk City

2011-06-06T14:22:00.001-04:00

I owe you so many cool posts. Here are some pictures from way back at the beginning of May. The little steampunk mini-con that Mother and I brainstormed a long while ago, and which the Charles River Museum of Industry made such a fabulous success, grew this year in to a Waltham-wide event called "Steampunk City." Unfortunately, a lot of the events we were going to be involved with got cancelled, but we did have a lovely little ball at the Museum as part of this monster event. For strolling about we hadn't made any particular plans, so Julia and I threw together casual steampunk outfits that morning from things that happened to be in our closets. Yes, we have closets of epic, colossal proportions.

Julia's Fuchsia Ragtime Dress

2011-06-01T11:33:00.005-04:00

Before the plaid 1860s dress, I made a ragtime dress for my little sister. It is roughly inspired by this totally exquisite dress in the Kyoto Institute. I think it could use some modifications (like a lighter colored belt), but it is basically cute, and she looks very pretty in it. Not bad for a very quick job.

Mother's Plaid Civil War Dress

2011-06-01T11:21:00.003-04:00

Happy Memorial Day! Well, yeah, I'm kind of late for that. In fact, I've been really slow at putting anything up here for a while. Sorry. On the bright side, I can assure you that I have actually been doing and making things - just not posting about them. I can do that now!

Mother did the Memorial Day parade thing on Monday, and I decided that she deserved a brand new dress for it. I happened to have this sheer plaid fabric hanging around, so I made her a dress! Hooray! I think it is quite nice, and am quite proud of the matching plaid on the front (hopefully you can't even tell, but that is where it closes).

La Traviata Ball, or Antonia's Gypsy Ballerina Costume

2011-05-03T13:26:00.006-04:00

The ball was lovely, and I've finally slogged through my pictures to bring you a few good ones. There was fabulous music (and the band looked as good as they sounded - too fun!). There were delightful cookies (violins and cameilas - how perfect!). I didn't do a good enough job of photographing other people's costumes, but many of them were wonderful, and it was great to see people getting so into the spirit of things. The dancing was lively, and all in all it was a really nice ball. But to be fair, my favorite part was definitely my outfit. I made so much noise when I walked, and even more when I danced. It was the best! What do you think?

Cake Concert

2011-04-25T11:37:00.002-04:00

I've been slow at posting, mostly because I've been doing the boring college student thing. With the semester coming to a close, I have all sorts of projects, papers, and loose ends to tie up. But on Friday I did do one very cool thing. I went to a Cake concert with my very cool mother.

Their lead singer said something interesting about how he thought what was wrong with society was the disappearance of the three-four time signature. In fact, my own theory was that the disappearance of hats was going to lead to the downfall of society, but in fact the majority of the band members wore hats, so perhaps I have been worrying for nothing. Fascinating. So, in an effort to jump-start society, listen to a lovely waltz by Cake.

1830 Fancy Dress Mystery

2011-04-18T10:37:00.000-04:00

This is an 1830 La Belle Assemblee fashion plate. It clearly states that these are fancy dress outfits (and indeed, I would believe nothing else). BUT WHAT ARE THEY? Gosh, I wish I knew. What do you think?

Hat of Grapes

2011-04-11T11:18:00.003-04:00

I have finally gotten around to watching Downton Abbey. I've heard incredible things about the hats, so I was watching for them. In fact, there was not one hat that I adored or that particularly inspired me, but I do love the variety and quantity of them. One hat that struck me in particular is this one, not because I think it is pretty (or even un-stupid), but because it reminds me very much of an original in the Met costume collection. See for yourself.

Fire in Lionel Digby's Storehouse

2011-04-08T13:21:00.004-04:00

I have a confession to make. I have not yet watched Downton Abbey (although I do intend to). I also have not seen The King's Speech. But I have just discovered a terrible horrible thing. Apparently the warehouse where the gorgeous clothing for these, and other, productions was destroyed in an arson attack. This is so miserable. Read an article about the tragedy here.

Nikolai Rostov's Hussar Uniform (War and Peace, 2007)

2011-04-07T10:02:00.008-04:00

I have developed a serious thing for Hussar uniforms. Totally spiffy and dripping with gold braid, these just look so cool! The problem, of course, is that I can look at a woman's dress in a movie and evaluate its historical accuracy, but with uniforms I have no idea. In fact, if anyone has good sources for information I'd love to know. I am sure there are people out there who really really know their stuff when it comes to uniforms. From a totally ignorant but aesthetically appreciative point of view, I have been particularly admiring Nikolai Rostov in the 2005 War and Peace. Wow.

First he wears he puts on a shirt and pants (with braces). Look how high up those pants go.
Notice that he wears a black neckcloth with his uniform (and a really spiffy collar on that white shirt). That is the kind of thing I would never have anticipated. I wonder if it is actually accurate. For that matter, I wonder what this whole uniform is based on.
Now there's the dolman, his actual jacket. Look at the braid! Check out the buttons! And it has a cute little tail in the back.
Over that, a pelisse. You can see that when he is on campaign in the cold (Russia in winter), he wears the pelisse over his dolman and closes it. But in a much more spiffy and rakish fashion, he usually wears it slung over his left shoulder. I love it!
Then there are the accessories, of course. I have no idea what's going on with the sash, but I wish I did. The hat is... wow. With the scales and the tassel and the rosette... I love it! And he has a little satchel (apparently you call it a reticule... I'm having trouble with all the overlap in women's clothing and men's uniform terms: reticule, dolman, pelisse!). So spiffy!
And of course, I might prefer it in red. I'm not at all sure! Look at those boots, though. Beautiful gold tassles on Hessian boots. Does anyone know where to get Hessian boots?

White Uniforms and Tchaikovsky

2011-04-05T09:53:00.005-04:00

I love these uniforms, and I love this music. I wish I knew more about men's military uniforms - if anyone knows more than I do, please please tell me! I absolutely love the red-lined tails on Prince Andrei's smashing uniform in War and Peace (the 2007 miniseries). I adore the shape of the jacket and the trousers with a red stripe on Count Vronsky's uniform in Anna Karenina (the 1997 movie). I also love the Tchaikovsky Swan Lake music. It is so sweeping and romantic (and in a movie, nobody gives you dirty looks for throwing in irritating retards that trip up ballroom dancers). By the way, I am putting these up because they are pretty, not because I condone the dancing. Don't even think about that. Just admire the pretty music and the gorgeous uniforms (although who knows if I would still like them if I knew more about men's uniforms - but if they are wrong, ignorance is bliss, because they look so pretty! Epaulettes!).

Cabinet Card Gypsies

2011-04-04T11:33:00.005-04:00

These come from a wordpress blog called "The Cabinet Card Gallery," which actually has bunches of really cute cabinet cards. But here are two cute gypsy pictures, since we're looking at gypsies and gypsy costumes for La Traviata Ball (see more gypsies here, here, here, and here). I love those gypsy girls! They are adorable! Does anyone know where I can get a tambourine?

Crazy Ribbon and Cross Necklace

2011-04-03T10:25:00.000-04:00

First I found this cool La Belle Assemblee fashion plate of a girl in an armlet, with this super-funky necklace. It looks like a ribbon loop, joined at a heart, with a hanging ribbon and a cross at the end. Weird and interesting. Then I found another fashion plate from the next month, with the same odd necklace. I thought that perhaps it was just a weird July-August of 1825 trend. But then I found another necklace that looks really similar from July 1829. So... cool! I guess if I find a big cross I should make one some time.

An 1825 Armlet

2011-04-02T10:06:00.000-04:00

Ooh, look! Another armlet! This is a 1925 La Belle Assemblee fashion plate, thanks to the Los Angles Public Library. They have an incredible database available for you to check out. I wonder how popular armlets were and how long they were around for. Interestingly, this one appears to be to be a single armlet, but she is also wearing a pair of bracelets. Interesting interesting. I always feel like bracelets should come in pairs, so I was all ready to believe the same of armlets, but I guess it is more complex an issue than that. Also, that is one seriously fascinating necklace. This girl has got some wild taste in jewelry.If you are behind on the armlet saga, check out this post.

Napoleon and the Empire of Fashion

2011-03-31T13:48:00.005-04:00

This exhibit looks amazing. These are some of the most beautiful early 19th century clothes I've ever seen. I keep wanting to say "Regency," but technically you should call these things "Napoleonic," and in the US we're talking about "Federal," but regency is the best term for getting people to immediately identify what you're talking about - it is tough to know what to do about that. But enough of these semantics, here is the real point. This exquisite exhibit was up in Italy, and on the website you can vote for where you'd like to see it next. I beg you to go vote for New York. Seriously, if the exhibit were to come to New York, I would promise to go see it and write about it. GO VOTE!
Also, while you're there, check out the amazing photos. They only have a few up, but already I'm inspired to make several new projects based on what is there. You can also check out videos about the exhibit. Apparently Napoleon paid people well, but then expected them to spend a lot (and thus help out the economy). I find the notion of Napoleon walking up to some lady and saying "Yeah... I've already seen that dress at least twice before. Go buy another one," kind of hilarious. Oh Napoleon, you funny guy.

Fright Night Remake

2011-03-30T11:52:00.001-04:00

Fright Night is a totally adorable movie from 1985. Charley Brewster loves horror movies, but is convinced that his neighbor is a vampire. Nobody believes him, and his girlfriend enlists the help of Peter Vincent, a washed-up horror movie actor and Charley's hero. Vincent does a hokey test to prove that the neighbor is not a vampire and put Charlie at ease, but also accidentally discovers that Charley was right. Whoops. So obviously, they have to kill the vampire now. It is just an adorable old vampire movie, and I like those things.
When I heard there was going to be a re-make, I was horrified. Surely they would mess it up! But then I discovered that Charley Brewster will be played by none other than Anton Yelchin from Charlie Bartlett. Suddenly, I feel much better about this movie's prospects. Also, Peter Vincent will be played by David Tennant, which is also very promising. This is all very good news.

Charlie Bartlett

2011-03-28T13:28:00.005-04:00

Once upon a time, I saw a trailer for Charlie Bartlett. It looked like potentially the best movie ever. I got excited. I waited for the release. They postponed it. Still I waited, expectantly hoping. They postponed it again. I began to worry. Then I began to worry more, because at this point I'd been waiting and excited for so long that I was not sure any movie could live up to these expectations. I prepared myself for disappointment.

I was wrong. When I finally got to see Charlie Bartlett, I was not disappointed. It was fabulous. Go watch it! Charlie Bartlett is a rich kid who just wants to be liked. A string of non-malicious and yet illegal ventures (which did, admittedly, make him popular) has gotten him kicked out of several private schools. Now it is time for public school. His somewhat out-of-touch-with-reality yet very sweet mother worries when he gets beaten up by the public school bully, and sends him to a psychiatrist. Eventually, Charlie sets up with an office in the boys' bathroom, listening to the problems of his fellow students and dispersing medication as is appropriate (while faking different disorders for a string of psychiatrists to get the prescription drugs). What Charlie fails to recognize is that dealing prescription drugs is never really appropriate. Whoops. In a very Pump Up the Volume sort of way, Charlie accidentally takes over the school from the troubled-alcoholic-principal-and-father-of-Charlie's-love-interest, and has to grow up and put all his actions to rights etc etc etc.
Why is this movie so great? Mostly because of Anton Yelchin. I can't even say enough good things about him, but he is wonderful as Charlie Bartlett. He is also wonderful as Chekov in the new Star Trek movie (which I also though was great). Anton Yelchin is great. I am so glad he became an actor instead of an ice skater (his parents are Russian figure skaters). The rest of the cast is great (I think it may actually have been the mother that made me fall in love with the trailer, and Robert Downey Jr. is great as the principal). The plot is darling, and there are some really delightful lines. In a movie where Anton Yelchin really is the show, the subplot with Murphy the bully almost manages to steal the show. Seriously, Murphy is great.
This movie is so charming. I totally love it.

1880s Fancy Dress Gypsies

2011-03-27T14:24:00.003-04:00

Ardern Holt's 1887 book, "Fancy Dresses Described: or, What to Wear at Fancy Balls" is available to read online at http://www.archive.org/details/fancydressesdesc00holtrich. This is a little late (1887, while the event is aiming more for the 1860s) for CVD's La Traviata Ball (April 30!). The descriptions are great for gypsy inspiration anyway, and here is a lovely plate showing an Esmeralda costume. Let me remind you (or tell you) that Esmeralda is not only a gypsy, but a dancing gypsy. She confesses a murder she did not commit because they threaten to crush her foot in a vise. Seriously. So that is pretty much perfect! Notice some of the recurring themes and how they also showed up in my previous gypsy posts - gold trim, red black and gold or yellow, coins as trim, sashes, tambourines, etc. I wish I knew who "Zitella" was, but she sure sounds like a gypsy to me.ESMERALDA. A rich gipsy dress in yellow, black, and scarlet satin, made short, trimmed with coins and gold braid; a sash of gold tissue tied about the hips, a tambourine carried in hand ; bracelets above and below elbow, united by coins ; stay-bodice with coins and gold braid ; gold net with sequins; ornaments, sequins. Sometimes (as in Coloured Illustration No. V.) the skirt is red, trimmed with gold, and the bodice takes the form of a loose black jacket, with full yellow vest of
soft silk.

ESMERALDA, PRETTY. Yellow satin box-plaited skirt, with lace flounces, draped on the side, with red satin embroidered in gold ; black satin bodice and jacket, embroidered in gold, with pockets at side ; large black and gold scarf tied at the side.

GIPSY, QUEEN OF GIPSIES, FORTUNE, FORTUNE-TELLER, PEDLAR, BOHEMIENNE, AND ZINGARI. For the pedlar and fortune-teller order of Gipsies, a short red, black, or print skirt, loose red bodice, with belt ; yellow handkerchief round neck, red cloak, straw bonnet, and basket stocked with laces, clothes-pegs, cheap jewellery, packs of cards ; bright red petticoat with band of black velvet and gold braid on either side. Algerian tunic, velvet bodice, low square short turreted sleeves, trimmed with gold braid and sequins, gold cord from shoulder attached to a small dagger at the waist ; chemisette of soft muslin with puffed sleeves tied at elbow with black velvet ; orange and red handkerchief tied round head, the ends crossing at back fastened with large gold pins ; coin ornaments. Or, a striped woollen petticoat, a blue jacket, cut V-shape at neck, lined with maize; a muslin apron and bib, playing-cards sewn to skirt; worsted handkerchief tied over head. The more ornamental Gipsy Queens, &c., wear short dresses of red, yellow, and black satin betrimmed with gold, as follows : Red satin petticoat, with black velvet and gold hieroglyphics, trimmed with coins and gold fringe ; gold satin upper-skirt, covered with a gold trellis-work, and Vandykes with coins, Spanish balls, and fringe ; silk scarf of many colours round waist, stay-bodice of black velvet, trimmed with gold, short sleeves, black velvet bag ; gold crown with coins, bracelets and armlets united by chains, coin ornaments ; a tambourine in hand. This is equally applicable for a Zingari or Bohemienne, except that a gold net and coins is best fo'- the head. High black satin boots with gold trimmings, or black shoes embroidered in gold, and sometimes a white chemisette above the low bodice, black gloves, black stockings ; pale yellow flowered skirt, draped with jonquil satin, crape sash studded with stars ; red satin bodice over
lace ; yellow gauze draped across the shoulders ; scarf of red and yellow gauze about the head. (See also Portuguese Gitana, Preciosa, and Esmeralda, and Coloured Illustration
V.)

GITANA. Red shirt, black tunic, with black velvet bands embroidered with gold and coins; red body and cap; black gloves and shoes. {See Gipsy and Portuguese.)

MASCOTTE. Dress of cream cashmere, body and skirtslashed with crimson silk and gold, with epaulettes of the same ; tunic embroidered with gold, edged with gold fringe, looped with gold girdle and tassels; toque of crimson and gold ; vivandiere's canteen and gauntlets. Also dark brown wobllen dress and straw hat, large bunches of poppies and field flowers outside ; gold collarette ; vivandiere's barrel and gauntlet gloves. The gipsy costume worn by Mdlle. Dinelli in
the third act of La Mascotte was composed of a drapery of crimson and gold, shorter on one side than the other, but nowhere reaching the ground. Coloured silk stockings and shoes, with sandals of gold reaching to the knee ; a handkerchief of red and gold tied over dark flowing hair; tambourine; no gloves or mittens worn.

MEXICAN GIPSY. Black satin vandyke skirt, with red satin scarf over black, and red satin bodice covered with sequins ; red satin head-dress and Mexican ornaments.

CARMEN (heroine of Bizet's Opera). In first scene wears a Spanish dress, short skirt, forming three tunics, white, blue, and red, all trimmed with gold braid, the top covered with a lattice-work of gold braid ; white muslin loose bodice, short red or black satin Senorita jacket over it ; black mantilla. Second dress (a gipsy costume), short skirt of Armenian embroidery
in all colours, arranged with bands of the same at the back. Muslin bodice; Spanish jacket of silver cloth, with short and pendant sleeves. Necklace of many rows of silver coins; armlets and bracelets of the same. Head-dress, silver braid, coins, and roses of three colours. Third dress
(a brigand woman), short stuff petticoat, striped blue, yellow, black, and red; scarf of same draped round it. Yellow waistcoat, brown Senorita jacket, with long sleeves, trimmed with
black ball fringe. Linen cuffs and collars, blue necktie, red handkerchief tied about head. Round Spanish cap (black). Fourth costume, exquisite Spanish lady's dress, short white satin skirt, with three rows of gold blonde, headed by bands of ruby satin, bordered with gold ; down the front bows of gold braid tagged ; stay bodice of white satin, with gold buttons, pointed back and front. Senorita jacket of ruby satin, with long sleeves, gold blonde ruffles. Mantilla of gold blonde, diamond ornaments, roses at the side. With all but the brigand dress gold-embroidered stockings and shoes. Prosper Merimee describes the wayward gipsy as wearing a short black silk, with low bodice and short sleeves, or square bodice with elbow sleeves, plain skirt, rather full, black mantilla, and a great bunch of white jasmine fastened high on the head. A large plain black fan, or
one of the cheap Spanish fans. Madame Dolaro wore in the second act of the opera a short dress of blood-red cashmere, made with a full bodice, and a mere shoulder-strap for sleeve; round this was wound three times, beginning at the shoulder, a scarf of black gauze, with wide stripes of gold. No ornaments but a scarlet flower placed high in the hair. Red, black, and yellow, blue and silver, all good combinations. Patti, in the first act, wore a short dress of deep orange satin, trimmed with black chenille lace ; black velvet Spanish jacket over a white chemisette ; bright green sash and shoes ; black mantilla. In the second act, a gold satin dress, embroidered with crimson flowers ; white silk gauze bodice, long hanging gauze sleeves, sewn with red coins and golden drops ; a black gauze scarf with silver stripes round the hips. In the next act, dark blue and yellow striped petticoat, a pointed band, red velvet jacket ; cap of black velvet with scarlet. In the last scene, a short bright pink skirt, cream silk tunic, embroidered with roses and pomegranate blossoms ; light cherry-coloured velvet bodice with bands of gold, white blonde mantilla over high comb, fastened with roses, fan painted with Spanish bull-fight.

MICAELA (Carmen). Short white cashmere skirt, bordered with band of blue ; blue over-skirt, trimmed up the front ; low square bodice, with grenat velvet, revers of the grenat velvet bordering white stomacher ; white linen headdress, fastened with gold pins, and flowing at the back ; muslin cap. (Le Cceur et la Maift). Short striped red and yellow petticoat ; three tunics above of red, matching red stay-bodice, cut square in the neck ; large straw hat j wreath of flowers. Black grelots and gold fringe and coins ; large ornamental pattern of gold, worked up the front and sides ; above this a scarf of black lace, almost covered by a tunic of scarlet and gold ; Oriental silk tunic, pointed on one side, and knotted on the other ; low black body, cut square, trimmed with gold chains and coins ; handkerchief of the same red and gold material, tightly tied round the head ; black stockings embroidered with gold spangles and shoes en suite. Or short
black satin skirt bordered with gold braid and coins ; crimson satin tunic ornamented with gold butterflies and stars ; black and crimson satin jacket, with coins; crimson satin headdress
with gold sequins; anklets and necklets of gold coins. Tambourine.

ZITELLA. Red cap with coins ; black velvet bodice and red waistcoat, embroidered and laced with gold ; red gold-embroidered tunic, studded with coins and bound with black velvet, and bordered with gold fringe ; petticoat of black velvet, with broad band of hieroglyphics in- gold, and gold fringe ; silk sash in red, gold, and black.

Gypsy Fancy Dress Costume at the Met

2011-03-24T10:35:00.005-04:00

This is another lovely item from the Metropolitan Museum Costume Institute. What is the best part? The lovely little red bolero covered with gold trim? The fabulous headdress with attached coins? The yellow skirt with wide black lace (doesn't it look like the Cachucha dresses from yesterday? I told you so!)? Well, it is beautiful. The date given is 1880. This is a little late for La Traviata, but there is no reason to hesitate to incorporate any of these cool gypsy elements into your outfit for the ball on April 30. I know I will be doing just that...

La Cachucha

2011-03-23T13:38:00.000-04:00

Ok. Technically, these aren't gypsies. But while I was searching for lovely pictures of balletic gypsies, I started finding all these pictures of Fanny Elssler dancing la cachucha, and several of other ballerinas also labeled with the term. So these aren't gypsies, but they are cute, Spanish inspired ballerina girls. I find that the thick strips of black lace on a colored skirt is a recurring theme in 19th century gypsy costumes.

According to wikipedia (yeah... high quality research for you), La Cachucha is "a Spanish solo dance... danced to an Andalusian national song with castanet accompaniment. Also, "Fanny Elssler (1810-1884, Vienna) was the first one to make this dance popular: she first introduced the Cachucha to the public in the ballet The Lady of the Lake (1812) and later in Jean Coralli's ballet Le Diable Boiteux (1836, "the Lame Devil"). So... now you know. But mostly I just thought they were cute.

Inspiring Ballet Gypsies

2011-03-22T13:20:00.005-04:00

Well, not all of these are gypsies. We have Esmerelda, Gitana, and Paquita, but I've also included some very similar peasant-girl ballet dresses, and even a troeador. I love cute gypsy girls! These are mostly from the 1840s and 50s. I think my outfit for our upcoming La Traviata ball must have some serious mid-19th century ballet costume influences.

Zeffirelli - Noi Siamo Zingarelle

2011-03-21T13:52:00.002-04:00

Well, here are the gypsies that started it all. By which I mean, the party scene that convinced me that we need gypsies. If you haven't seen the Zeffirelli film of La Traviata, go do so. It is beautiful and dramatic and romantic and tragic and all things lovely. But mostly, check out the scene with the gypsies.

By the way, any matadors that want to come to the ball are also totally welcome. Bring it on.

Event Announcement - La Traviata Ball

2011-03-20T13:38:00.001-04:00

Once upon a time, I decided that something was missing. Yes, our balls are beautiful. Yes, we have high standards for historical accuracy. Yes, they are the best and most affordable fairy tale experience available in the area. But I knew something was missing.

Gypsies. In the words of Blackadder, hot dancing gypsies. I was watching a lovely version of La Traviata and got to the party scene where gypsies descend, singing "Noi Siamo Zingarelle." Gypsies know how to party. The took a beautiful, extravagant ball, and made it wild.

So make sure to keep April 30 free! If Returning Heroes had too strict a dress code for you, pull out your best gypsy gear and come visit! Or recycle your 1860s ballgown from the last ball. Or just show up! This ball is going to be spectacular. Hope you are ready for:

La Traviata Ball

Saturday, April 30, 2011
8 to 11 pm

Berlin’s 1870 Town Hall
Berlin, MA

As usual, more details are available at the Commonwealth Vintage Dancers website (here), and questions can be directed to query@vintagedancers.org.

Modes Revolutionnaires, Paris, Sept. 1789

2011-03-16T11:38:00.004-04:00

How fun! I've been going through a big Scarlet Pimpernel phase, and reading a book about fashion in the french revolution. In honor of that, I bring you this very cool plate courteosy of the New York Public Library.

Edwardian Garters

2011-03-12T16:12:00.003-05:00

First of all, she is so cute! I love Edwardian underwear. More importantly, this is an interesting opportunity to see how you wear your drawers or combination, while also taking advantage of those beautiful garters hanging off of so many Edwardian corsets. You just bunch them up a little and go with it.

Pre-Regency Jumper, Countess du Barry 1789

2011-03-11T13:34:00.003-05:00

Apparently I have a regency jumper obsession. There aren't that many examples, but I'm finding them really interesting. Here is an example of what sure looks like a jumper, though the painting dates pretty early (1789). It is a Le Brun painting of the Countess du Barry, and I'm sure it is meant to be all artistic and drapey rather than really fashionable or a record of good every-day wear. On the other hand, if you think about the timing, fashions really were getting kind of relaxed and drapey and artistic. So interpret it as you will, but I think it is rather pretty, and it is interesting to wonder how common jumpers were and when.

March of the Emperors

2011-03-09T22:34:00.002-05:00

Do you remember when March of the Penguins came out? Well, this is a very old but very hilarious french advertisement from approximately then. So hilarious that, even now, I remember it fondly. Enjoy.

My Dress for Returning Heroes - Mrs. C W Stoughton

2011-03-08T08:26:00.000-05:00

A while ago I made a dress vaguely inspired by the very famous Winterhalter painting of Empress Elizabeth of Austria (or "Sisi" as she is less formally known). Mostly I found gauzy white fabric with sparkly gold stars and couldn't resist it. Add to that a lucky chunk of cream silk at a good price, and we were in business. At some point I found a painting of Mrs. C W Stoughton, who was not an empress (just like me!), but who had a strikingly similar dress. Yay! I always love finding more inspiration and justification.Sisi was famous for wearing precious diamond encrusted stars in her hair. This is certainly a look, if you can afford it. As I have mentioned once already, I am not an empress. On the other hand, Mrs. Stoughton's approach really spoke to me. The morning of the ball, I decided to throw together a black velvet diadem for my single Sisi star. Next time I am in Vienna I will have to invest in some graduated sizes to further match the Stoughton solution.
I cut buckram into a shape. I bent wire to match it. Then I tacked the wire to the buckram, forming a ring for my head. I wrapped the back of the ring in black (in fact, I used some junky lace because it wrapped better than wide ribbon, and that is what was on hand - remember, I mentioned that this was mere hours before the ball). Then I cut some little chunks of velvet (note to self - next time cut the velvet while the buckram is still a 2 dimensional template), and sewed them on (by hand, in the car). Ta dah! A last minute solution, with no glue-gun in sight! Oh, and of course I tacked on my sparkly star hair barrette.
I've never attempted this sort of loose hair style before, but I thought I would go for it for the sake of being different. In fact, I don't think I like it, but you need to try these things out to know, don't you? Here is the full effect.
And, because it is important, here is a picture of my family.

Sights from Returning Heroes 2011

2011-03-07T20:17:00.005-05:00

I am so slow when I have to use actual pictures from events. Sorry. The ball was lovely, and I had so much fun meeting and talking to some truly wonderful people. It was a very nice evening indeed. Enjoy some pretty pictures of people dancing. Tomorrow I will go into the details of my outfit, but today I don't feel competent to explain anything. Look - a rare picture of me actually dancing!

My Royal Regency Jumper

2011-03-03T11:30:00.008-05:00

That's me, admiring the Prince of Wales! Too cool! This weekend we went to the Museum of Fine arts to look at the new Art of the Americas wing. I got to see lots of pretty paintings, and even a fabulous dress. I also got a chance to debut the new dress I made last week. It is inspired by Princess Charlotte's Russian jumper, though not by any means a direct copy. Mostly I was inspired to make a light blue, silk-like jumper with gold scalloped trim around the arm and neck holes and in two stripes down the front. Hers was made in two pieces, mine is just one. Hers has some kind of buttons decoratively down the middle, mine does not. Her back is very curiously shaped, but I did not bother with that sort of thing. I feel like it looks really wrinkly in these pictures, which is too bad, but it was still nice. Wow, I sound too negative, but don't mean to be - let's try again. This dress is really cool and pretty and sparkly and I feel like a princess!
For comparison, here is Princess Charlotte:
I also added a "spencer" for traveling (it was cold and snowy!). Actually, this is a great example of cheating by wearing a modern garment with the right lines for the period. Actually, I had to pin up the weird tail of the jacket in the back, but I think it looks pretty good, and was otherwise pretty similar in idea to a real regency spencer.
I should have gotten more group shots, but I failed. Mostly, I have pictures of me with my little sister, because she was also wearing a regency dress and we are super cute. Here are a couple other pictures too, of my mother (she did 1860s with a white cotton with red sprigs dress), and Katy Bishop (who wore a fabulous pink 1880s dress).

Event Announcements - Returning Heroes Ball

2011-03-02T10:42:00.003-05:00

The time has come! The biggest ball of the season! This is the closest you can really get to time traveling - imagine a room full of people, doing dances of the 1860s, with appropriate clothes and refreshments, all in the absolutely lovely setting of the Holliston Town Hall. It does not get better than that. Clear your Saturday, go make a reservation, and I will see you there!

RETURNING
HEROES BALL
an 1860's GRAND BALL

SATURDAY
MARCH 5^th, 2011
dancing is 8 to 11 pm
Ballroom Doors open at 7:30 pm

Free Dance Workshop 3 to 5 pm
at the Holliston Town Hall
703 Washington Street, Holliston, MA

Live Music by The fine Musicians of
Spare Parts
William Matthiessen, Elizabeth Stell
and Frank Orsini

Precepting by Barbara Pugliese

ADMISSION
Adult $30
Students (with id) $15

(There is a $5 surcharge if you do not pre-register, so get to it now!)

A 9-Strut Regency Umbrella

2011-02-28T13:21:00.004-05:00

As soon as I say something, I must revise it. I stand by what I said before, actually, that a 7-strutted parasol was odd and surprising to me. I will maintain that 8 or 6 is what I see the most, so it is reasonable to wonder if an a-typical number of struts and segments might not be an artistic issue rather than an actual phenomenon. But here is a physical object rather than a drawing - an umbrella (not totally the same thing, but close cousin of the parasol), sold by August Auctions here. They dated it to 1790-1810. Here is the description and the pictures, but pay special attention to the picture of the inside, where you can see the struts. Count them. I see nine, an odd and unusual number. Isn't that fascinating?

"Umbrella with dark blue-green cotton cover, striped with beige around edges, ivory or bone points, metal framing, baleen canopy ribs, tortoise colored crooked handle, possibly horn, brass cylindrical slide and tip, stenciled green and tan cotton drawstring case, (small dents in brass, minor stains and wear to wood handle) excellent."

Regency Armlets

2011-02-27T01:22:00.000-05:00

It all started with this 1809 painting of Mrs Harrison Gray Otis. She is pretty, the dress is pretty - but it was the bracelet high up on her arm that transfixed me. What was going on? I am a mid-nineteenth century girl, and I can't remember having seen any example of this before. But it is really cool, no? So was Mrs Otis just a bit odd, or was this really a trend?
Then I started looking for further documentation. I found lots of portraits of girls with gold bands about their arms, high and at about the level of the edge of the sleeve. But most of these, I am convinced, are actually just bands of trim on the sleeve. See if you don't agree. These were dead ends for solving my mystery. In fact, I started to worry that even Mrs Otis was just wearing sleeve trim and super-sheer sleeves. After all, there are a lot of renaissance paintings where I know the woman is wearing a super-sheer chemise but I can only really tell because the very edge is slightly visible)
On the other hand, I found a couple of portraits with what might be trim, or what could really genuinely be bracelets, at that same high point but this time over sleeves instead of below them on bare arms. I can't be truly sure on these, but I feel like they are jewelry, not trim.It wasn't until I found this fashion plate (look here) that I really solved the mystery. The text for the plate says "A turban a la Greque, of pale yellow and silver, the hair in small ringlets round the face; diamond earings, and armlets, either with or without necklace. Sack dress of pale yellow, trimmed with silver, white satin shoes, and white kid gloves."Eureka! Armlets! Not bracelets, but armlets. A little further research, now that I had the name, and I am convinced that armlets were definitely a thing in the early nineteenth century. I like that the text says armlets, plural. I don't have evidence that these should be worn in pairs, and the women in the portraits are dis-obligingly in profile where we can only see one arm, but since I am used to bracelet pairs later in the century I am very comfortable with this idea. Anyway, I'm going to have to trot out a pair of cool armlets for our next regency ball (I think I have just the right pair of too-large-and-too-round-for-my-wrists bracelets in mind, even).

7-Segmented Parasol?

2011-02-26T11:17:00.000-05:00

This is an 1801 engraving. Count carefully... her parasol has seven segments and seven struts. I am assuming that this is an artistic issue - I have never seen an uneven parasol. I see a lot with 8 struts, a lot with 6 struts, the occasional one with 4 struts (though not, in my experience, this early in the century). Artistic idiosyncrasy or unusual parasol - either way it is funky and interesting. Also, while we're at it, check out the beautiful back on the top engraving. So pretty!

A Women's Regency Garrick

2011-02-25T10:05:00.000-05:00

This is from Journal des Dames et des Modes 1817, and is an illustration of a "garrick." It is the same concept as the men's coats I've been posting (here and here), except that this one would look cute on me! I kind of love it. In fact, I could probably have been calling those garricks too, but I'm not sure how common the word is (since I haven't run across it until now), and "overcoat" is good enough for me. I can't count the cape layers confidently, since they are just too fine and delicate, but I think there are at least 5. I have no immediate plans to sew one of these, but now I kind of want one of my own...
A reminder, for comparison:

A Modern Bubble Dress

2011-02-24T11:37:00.000-05:00

I helped a friend of mine make a party dress. We made it Friday night and she wore it Saturday night. Fun, right? Not my usual style of project, but it was an interesting adventure. We totally made up the bubble skirt technique, but it turns out that just making the lining shorter is really enough to do it. Nice. So this is what I do at college... haha.

Event Announcement - A Trip to the Museum of Fine Arts

2011-02-23T11:29:00.000-05:00

This should be really fun. I love going on random outings in fabulous clothing, and this won't have any specific time period, so just grab whatever you have. It is the perfect opportunity to trot out a new outfit never worn before (yeah, stay tuned... I started something a couple of days ago), OR even wear modern cloths. I would love to see my friends or make some new ones, and this should be a particularly welcoming event.Meet us at the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, on Sunday, February 27 at 2 pm in the new Art of the Americas wing. From 2-5 we will be strolling, ready to see and be seen, in our historical best. We would love to see you, so dress-up in your favorite historical (or modern!) outfit, and join us! Pre-registration is not necessary. Consider getting a discount on museum admission at your local library.

For more information or answers to your questions phone CVD at (617) 819-4283,
or email query@vintagedancers.org

The 1812 Overcoat in the 1995 Pride and Prejudice

2011-02-22T12:44:00.003-05:00

The costumer on the 1995 Pride and Prejudice was so cool. This coat shows up on a minor character briefly (when Elizabeth first visits Lady Catherine de Burgh, and then you also see one arm as Jane and Mr. Bingley get into their carriage at the very end). But doesn't it look familiar? Though it does have only 4 cape layers, not 5. Still, very classy.Forgive the poor quality pictures. I am hopeless with computers, and this is such a obscure thing that I could only get pictures by taking screencaps myself, so they are less than perfect.

Regency Ice Skating

2011-02-21T01:59:00.001-05:00

First of all, I love this set of pictures that mother took. So cool!
Let us just say that this gentleman was a much better ice skater than I was. In fact, let us further say that it is a total surprise I only fell dramatically once. My knee is all purple... Ow! Other highlights of the afternoon include hearing Cake on the sound system (somehow I don't think it is actually because the ice skating people read my blog... but it was a fun coincidence), and of course watching Julia's cape flip over her head and blind her - repeatedly - as she attempted to skate around in the strong winds. Those winds were REALLY strong.... there were times when I was standing still but the wind blew me across the ice until I was actually moving pretty fast. And of course, if you were already moving at a reasonable speed, the wind make that speed unreasonable.

As for what I wore, I started with my brown federal-era dress, made from a (very pretty) Past Patterns pattern. This is the same one I wore in Vienna. To make it a little more day-wear-like (i.e. less astoundingly busty), I added a make-shift fichu to the neckline. Now, remember all my lessons about how to fake the outfit by getting the silhouette as close as possible? I did not have a pelisse, but I did have this cute 1960s jacket with an artificially high waistline. I pinned the lapels up and decided to go with it. Honestly, the giant velvet buttons say Ragtime to me, not Regency, but these are details! Then to stay really warm, I added a little red caplet that I recently made, and a hat for good measure.

Men's Regency Overcoat

2011-02-18T19:18:00.003-05:00

I take it all back. Men's clothing is totally interesting. I just found this illustration from an 1812 Costume Parisian. It made me think of this rather drool-worthy coat from the MET that I've been in love with (which, now that I go back and check, is also labeled as 1812). Between this and the vest I posted a couple of days ago, I must admit that men's clothing can be fabulous.

CAKE!

2011-02-15T17:57:00.000-05:00

I think it is time for a break from regency, and all the fascinating historical things I have in mind. When I take a break, I like to listen to Cake. This is because Cake is a fantastically cool band. Have some Cake. Short Skirt Long Jacket is one of the more brilliantly constructed songs ever, and the music video for The Distance is very clever. Enjoy.

Glorious Regency Vest

2011-02-15T09:45:00.003-05:00

I am in love. The offset stripes... the alternating buttons! It is too, too beautiful.

After Dancing with the Dashwoods

2011-02-14T13:20:00.005-05:00

The ball this weekend was spectacular. We had about 150 people there, which was really exciting, and most of them had at least made an effort to wear Regency clothing - some of them had really fabulous outfits. The dancing was also really exciting, and I hope everyone enjoyed dancing as much as I enjoyed watching them dance. It was just too cool! All in all, Mr. Darcy might not have approved, but I am sure Kitty and Lydia would have had a blast!
Time for the fashion show. Julia wore mother's yellow silk dress, and a pearl collar I made years ago but which has, I think, never been worn. Mother wore a beaded net overdress we had lying around over a seafoam silk underdress (which we started making at 11 PM the night before) and a turban (which I threw together experimentally that morning). I wore a new, fairly plain, cream colored dress with embroidery which we started during school break, but which Mother did most of the work for while I was at school. I accessorized with a necklace of gold filigree beads mother often wears, then twined a strand of similar gold filigree beads (earmarked for a different project) into my hair, then added a pair of really spiffy earrings from the Uffizi gift shop. And red boots - always the signature red boots. The hair was mostly inspired by a portrait that I included in my regency hair post - I'm not sure if she has little combs or if she did exactly the same thing as I did with the beads, but either way I think I got the right feeling going.

Regency Military Uniforms

2011-02-11T13:02:00.004-05:00

Something else for the men... gorgeous British army and navy uniforms. I bet you can't get one of these made by tomorrow, but they are lovely to look at, and there is always next year! By the way, we are practically at capacity for the ball tomorrow (over 100 people signed up). I am so excited!

Event Announcement - Regency Ice Skating Party

2011-02-10T10:18:00.003-05:00

Will you be looking for more opportunities to wear your regency outfit after the ball this Saturday? Then keep February 19 free for some fun and ice skating! This is more of a meet-up type event, so you don't need to register with us, just pay admission at the skating rink. Come in your best regency clothes (and a few warm layers too - the rink is outside), or just wear anything and come skating anyway. You can even come if you didn't go to the ball (but I know you want to go to the ball too!). Really, there are no requirements for this event, but I am really excited about it - so show up!

Regency Ice Skating Party
February 19, at 1 pm
Cambridge, Massachusetts
Sponsored by: The Commonwealth Vintage Dancers

Meet us at Kendall Square Community Skating, 300 Athenaeum St (near 3rd St), Cambridge. We will be skating from 1 to 4 pm. The rink has skate rentals and hot drinks, and is reasonably priced. No pre-registration is necessary, so just come join us! For more information or answers to your questions phone CVD at (617) 819-4283, or email Query@vintagedancers.org.

Women's Hair for Regency

2011-02-09T09:44:00.001-05:00

The best way to learn is by example, so here are a bunch of portraits and paintings. Look at the repeating elements. In fact, I haven't even sorted these for you, because I am lazy and you will learn more by studying them all yourself anyway. First of all, notice that nobody's hair is just down. A lot of the hair is kind of messy, with intentionally random-looking wisps (not huge tendrils or big escaping curls, but a lot of wispy bits). There are some really classical looking styles, channeling that ancient Roman and Greek feeling. Sometimes there are braided elements. Sometimes there are bands or ribbons wound through the hair. Sometime it is piled more high on the head, sometimes it is lower down in the back. Some of these ladies (like Josephine) are wearing crowns, but even the non-empresses sometimes have diadems or other ornaments. Also, sometimes the hair is even covered, with a hat or a turban (turbans are very cool for balls).

So how can you use this to get ready for a ball? The great news is that any hair you have is going to work. If your hair is really short, there is some precedence for this (I don't have a portrait, though), and at worst people may just think you are recovering from an illness. If your hair is short, try curling it and getting one of those wispy messes for a hairstyle. If your hair is medium, put it up in a knot or a bun and then mess with it to get it wispier, or aim for some really classical looking hairstyle. If your hair is so long you have extra to play with, try doing some of those braided elements incorporated into your piled hair style. With bangs, make them curly and wispy. With no bangs, don't worry about it. Add bands, ribbons, flowers, diadems, and more!

Or just make a bun. Let this collection of portraits inspire you, but not overwhelm you. After all, simple and understated is the height of Regency elegance.

Faking Regency Fashion for Men

2011-02-08T09:58:00.000-05:00

Oh dear. I do realize that the natural extension of taking a comprehensive look at Regency women's clothes, and how to fake them, would be to do the same for men. But this is so much more difficult! Not only do I not know nearly as much about men's clothing, but modern styles are much less likely to overlap in useful ways. Phoey!

On the bright side, I can promise you that this is no reason to stay away from the Commonwealth Vintage Dancers' ball this Saturday! I look forward to seeing you in whatever formal or semi-formal outfit you have lying about. But let me stop skirting the issue and take a stab at it.
To be dressed, you are going to need pants, a shirt, a vest, and a jacket. Ooh, and a neckcloth. Sir Percy Blakeney would never forgive me if I forgot that. If you are out and about, you would also need a hat and perhaps an overcoat - since they won't be missed in the ballroom, I won't even go there right now. To really get it right, I think you have to start from scratch and learn to sew. So the long term goal is to learn to sew, look really spiffy, and then pick up girls with both your fabulous wardrobe AND your fabulous sewing skills. It worked for my father. It is also working for the guy in these pictures. In the short term, let's see what limited-sewing modifications I can come up with for getting the right look.
Pants (and a little about boots and shoes)
This is a tough one. Your should probably, especially for a ball, be wearing breeches. Until your local Breeches-R-Us opens up, or men's fashions change in a rather unexpected manner, you won't just find these. But it is possible to fake them with limited sewing skills, by modifying a modern pair of pants to make them short, and adding a piece to cover the modern fly with a fake "broad fall."
Take a pair of pants, and chop off the bottom of the legs, a few inches below the knees. From those removed pieces, make two rectangles that measure (2x a good depth for the band + an inch for seam allowance = probably about 4 inches) by (the circumference of your leg where the pants will end +1 in for seam allowance + more if you want to overlap and add a button). Make these into cuffs (sew them into a circle, fold in the seam allowance along both edges, fold in half with the seam allowances on the inside, and sandwich the cut end of the pants into that). Also from the leftover pant legs, cut out a rectangle of fabric. Finish the edges (fold in so there are no raw edges), and sew this onto the front of the pants to cover the fly.There are other options. Long pants were beginning to show up in the regency period. They would not have been appropriate for a ballroom, but I won't tell if you won't. Some of these were sort of full, similar to modern trousers (though the modern fly design is really too modern). A lot of them had really skinny legs, more like the skin-tight buckskin breeches look. If you have them, wear them. If you have a pair of stunning boots, especially Hessian boots (with the cool dip in the front and a cute tassel!), all the better. But as hard as it is to fake pants, I bet it is harder to fake boots - plus they are not so good for dancing. For dancing, leather slippers were fashionable, so modern men's ballet flats or jazz oxfords would be cool, or just wear your favorite dress-shoes for dancing.
Shirt
Find a white shirt with a collar. Done. Really, the ideal regency shirt would be along the lines of a poet's shirt - voluminous sleeves, very plain but full. If you are interested in sewing, this is a good and easy project to get started on. If you are not good at sewing, this will be one of the least visible parts of your outfit, mostly covered by other clothing. Put on the shirt, flip up the collar, and tie a neckcloth around it.Neckcloth
A spiffy cravat, or intentionally understated neckcloth if you prefer, will be indispensable. Luckily, it is just a big rectangle of white cloth (preferably linen, but work with what you have)! How do you tie it? Again, this is not so much my area of expertise. Check out this collection of descriptions here (Neckclothitania), or look at portraits and fiddle with things until you get it to look right. Just remember to pop the collar first.
Vest
I suppose I should call it a waistcoat, but I am a mid-19th century girl at heart, so I forget these things. The most critical and noticeable difference between a regency waistcoat and a modern tailcoat is the bottom edge. It should be totally flat across. This should be an easy thing to fix, by flipping the points on a modern vest up and pinning them or sewing them to the inside. The nice thing is that these early century waistcoats can be much more spiffy and fantastically colored than for their later in the century cousins, so enjoy your freedom.
Jacket
Wear a modern tailcoat. Actually, wear the most old-fashioned tailcoat you can find (if you invest in a tailcoat that is good for the 1860s now, you can wear it to this AND to the Returning Heroes Ball next month!). I am not going to give suggestions for modifications, because there are not really any easy fixes. The front should end near the waist, with an inch or two of waistcoat showing below. It should either be scooped (good for early regency), or straight across with an angle to the straight sides of the tails (good for late regency). The easiest way to identify a really good regency tailcoat is the lack of a seam at the waist, where the tails join. This became very much the norm for the mid-19th century, but was totally unheard of at this point. If your tailcoat already has this seam, there is no way to get rid of it, so just smile and ignore it. Really, in terms of getting the silhouette right, it is not so critical. In terms of colors, there is also more variation here than later in the century when men take up the all-black all-the-time approach to dressing. Still, black is very serviceable, so that is what I would personally go for. I should also warn you that most regency tailcoats were double breasted, while most modern tailcoats are meant to look single breasted AND are meant to hang open. As I said before, to be perfect you must learn to sew, but you can look good enough without.

Regency Surface Features

2011-02-07T02:54:00.002-05:00

If you are just throwing an outfit together from your closet (hopefully for the Sense and Sensibility Bicentennial Ball this Saturday!), use my previous post and ignore this one. I promise that getting the shape right is all that really matters. On the other hand, if you are interested in more of the finer points of regency dresses (and seeing some really drool-worthy examples), today is for you. You might be able to use some of this information to improve a dress, like trims or overlays, or it might help you keep an open mind (for example, to colors) when you are in a thrift store.

Colors
Not all Regency dresses were white. A lot of them were, and they are really gorgeous. You don't need to avoid white, but you also should not feel stuck to it. In fact, a plain white dress is at best rare. That sort of gauzy dress you are imagining right now should probably have a subtle pattern woven into the fabric, or maybe a healthy dose of embroidery.
Now it is true that not all colors existed yet, or could be made into dyes for fabrics. We are talking about a period before some of the most exciting advances in dyeing technology. But don't be afraid of color. If you followed my moment of insecurity a few weeks ago, you are more than aware that yellow is a great Regency color. There really are others, too.
Check out this interesting article I found about funny color names in this period. Don't you feel more special now that you can tell people that you are wearing a coquelicot dress? And indeed, don't you feel superior just for knowing what puce looks like?

Embroidery
There is embroidery all over the place. This is probably my favorite example, though.
Overlays
Sheer gauzy fabrics were all the rage. This includes near-indecent sheer white dresses, but also cool overlays for your dresses! Check it out.
Metallic Trims
I've been seeing a lot of dresses with metallic elements - either the fabric itself, or some embroidery, or some really smashing trim!
Military Styling
Very popular, especially in a cute spencer or pelisse.Classical Influence
I have little to say on this, but just look around. The gauzy white draping? The columnar silhouette? Regency is all about the classical influences.
Mind Boggling Embellishments - A Case Study
I am totally in love with Princess Charlotte. I've already shown you a picture of her jumper dress (see Faking Regency 101 in the sleeves section). This is her bellflower dress. I don't even know what to say about it, it is just so lovely. Thanks to Vic of the Jane Austen's World blog for making these great pictures available - go here to read a whole post about this dress.

Why Mr. Darcy, I had NO IDEA!

2011-02-04T12:37:00.001-05:00

No. This is not precisely how the dancing will go at the Sense and Sensibility Ball. But it will still be fun!