I was just reading a fun article (for a somewhat less fun assignment) called "Embodying imperial spectacle: dressing Lady Curzon, Vicereine of India 1899-1905." Although most of the article has fabulous and interesting details about her clothing, there is a small section that discusses jewelry. Here is the important chunk:
Among the jewellery that Mary brought with her to India were her tiara, strings of
pearls, and a large sapphire necklace that was in fact a piece of costume jewellery,
with stones painted on the back to give the appearance of a sapphire. Mary wrote to
her mother in 1900, indicating she needed ‘a brooch or some stomach adornment’,
telling her ‘my “busam” is yawning for “jools” – paste not scorned!!’
Isn't that the most wonderful thing? I have claimed it for my new catch phrase - my bosom is yawning for jewels! Every time I get a sparkly brooch or necklace, that is what I think. And indeed, I've been just as inspired as Lady Curzon for some brooches or stomach adornments - which I'm calling corsage ornaments. I saw that
one at the MFA, and
Olga Paley's, and now here are some more! I am especially drawn to and impressed by the really large or long drippy ones, but they are all quite pretty. I'm often surprised by the dates on these - they are something I would associate with the late 19th century, with the South African diamond mines and the silver rushes and all. But that doesn't mean I haven't found several 18th or mid-19th century whoppers!
 |
| 1900 Vever Cherry Blossoms (29 cm long) |
 |
| 1850 Diamond Spray (V&A) |
 |
| 1900-10 Tiffany (14 cm long) |
 |
| 1905 Chaumet |
 |
| 1906 Cartier (29 cm long) |
 |
| 1915 Tiffany (9.5 cm) |
 |
| 1920 Tiffany |
 |
| 1923 (Met) |
 |
| 1925 French |
 |
| 19th century - what a monster of a bird brooch! He is nesting in your cleavage! |
 |
| Or maybe I spoke too soon... this one is pretty impressive too. |
 |
| 19th century Garrard |
 |
| 2nd half of the 19th century |
 |
| A bodice ornament action shot! |
 |
| 1760 France, with unusual use of colors |
 |
| 1850 France |
 |
| 1800 France |
 |
| Early 18th century, Germany |
 |
| 1860 Spray |
 |
| Tiffany Rosebud |
 |
| Another action shot, for a very long bodice ornament. That looks like Queen Maud to me. |
 |
| A Romanov Russian imperial eagle brooch - this one is totally for Julia. |
 |
| 1850s Spanish Opals |
 |
| 1880-1900 Tiffany (Met) |
 |
| 1889, and I think the birds are just hilariously cute |
 |
| 1890-1910 American, I particularly like these swags! |
 |
| 1890, bodice ornaments as two articulated foli |
 |
| 18th century Italian |
 |
| 1680-1700 Dutch (V&A) |
 |
| 1760 (V&A) |
 |
| 1770 Portuguese |
 |
| 1790 Portuguese, in a later brooch fitting |
