Thursday, May 10, 2012

My Busam is Yawning for Jools!

I was just reading a fun article (for a somewhat less fun assignment) called "Embodying imperial spectacle: dressing Lady Curzon, Vicereine of India 1899-1905." Although most of the article has fabulous and interesting details about her clothing, there is a small section that discusses jewelry. Here is the important chunk:

Among the jewellery that Mary brought with her to India were her tiara, strings of
pearls, and a large sapphire necklace that was in fact a piece of costume jewellery,
with stones painted on the back to give the appearance of a sapphire. Mary wrote to
her mother in 1900, indicating she needed ‘a brooch or some stomach adornment’,
telling her ‘my “busam” is yawning for “jools” – paste not scorned!!’

Isn't that the most wonderful thing? I have claimed it for my new catch phrase - my bosom is yawning for jewels! Every time I get a sparkly brooch or necklace, that is what I think. And indeed, I've been just as inspired as Lady Curzon for some brooches or stomach adornments - which I'm calling corsage ornaments. I saw that one at the MFA, and Olga Paley's, and now here are some more! I am especially drawn to and impressed by the really large or long drippy ones, but they are all quite pretty. I'm often surprised by the dates on these - they are something I would associate with the late 19th century, with the South African diamond mines and the silver rushes and all. But that doesn't mean I haven't found several 18th or mid-19th century whoppers!
1900 Vever Cherry Blossoms (29 cm long)
1850 Diamond Spray (V&A)
1900-10 Tiffany (14 cm long)

1905 Chaumet
1906 Cartier (29 cm long)
1915 Tiffany (9.5 cm)
1920 Tiffany
1923 (Met)
1925 French
19th century - what a monster of a bird brooch! He is nesting in your cleavage!
Or maybe I spoke too soon... this one is pretty impressive too.
19th century Garrard
2nd half of the 19th century
A bodice ornament action shot!
1760 France, with unusual use of colors
1850 France
1800 France
Early 18th century, Germany
1860 Spray
Tiffany Rosebud
Another action shot, for a very long bodice ornament. That looks like Queen Maud to me.
A Romanov Russian imperial eagle brooch - this one is totally for Julia.
1850s Spanish Opals
1880-1900 Tiffany (Met)
1889, and I think the birds are just hilariously cute
1890-1910 American, I particularly like these swags!
1890, bodice ornaments as two articulated foli
18th century Italian
1680-1700 Dutch (V&A)
1760 (V&A)
1770 Portuguese
1790 Portuguese, in a later brooch fitting

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