Tuesday, February 8, 2011

Faking Regency Fashion for Men

Oh dear. I do realize that the natural extension of taking a comprehensive look at Regency women's clothes, and how to fake them, would be to do the same for men. But this is so much more difficult! Not only do I not know nearly as much about men's clothing, but modern styles are much less likely to overlap in useful ways. Phoey!

On the bright side, I can promise you that this is no reason to stay away from the Commonwealth Vintage Dancers' ball this Saturday! I look forward to seeing you in whatever formal or semi-formal outfit you have lying about. But let me stop skirting the issue and take a stab at it.
To be dressed, you are going to need pants, a shirt, a vest, and a jacket. Ooh, and a neckcloth. Sir Percy Blakeney would never forgive me if I forgot that. If you are out and about, you would also need a hat and perhaps an overcoat - since they won't be missed in the ballroom, I won't even go there right now. To really get it right, I think you have to start from scratch and learn to sew. So the long term goal is to learn to sew, look really spiffy, and then pick up girls with both your fabulous wardrobe AND your fabulous sewing skills. It worked for my father. It is also working for the guy in these pictures. In the short term, let's see what limited-sewing modifications I can come up with for getting the right look.
Pants (and a little about boots and shoes)
This is a tough one. Your should probably, especially for a ball, be wearing breeches. Until your local Breeches-R-Us opens up, or men's fashions change in a rather unexpected manner, you won't just find these. But it is possible to fake them with limited sewing skills, by modifying a modern pair of pants to make them short, and adding a piece to cover the modern fly with a fake "broad fall."
Take a pair of pants, and chop off the bottom of the legs, a few inches below the knees. From those removed pieces, make two rectangles that measure (2x a good depth for the band + an inch for seam allowance = probably about 4 inches) by (the circumference of your leg where the pants will end +1 in for seam allowance + more if you want to overlap and add a button). Make these into cuffs (sew them into a circle, fold in the seam allowance along both edges, fold in half with the seam allowances on the inside, and sandwich the cut end of the pants into that). Also from the leftover pant legs, cut out a rectangle of fabric. Finish the edges (fold in so there are no raw edges), and sew this onto the front of the pants to cover the fly.There are other options. Long pants were beginning to show up in the regency period. They would not have been appropriate for a ballroom, but I won't tell if you won't. Some of these were sort of full, similar to modern trousers (though the modern fly design is really too modern). A lot of them had really skinny legs, more like the skin-tight buckskin breeches look. If you have them, wear them. If you have a pair of stunning boots, especially Hessian boots (with the cool dip in the front and a cute tassel!), all the better. But as hard as it is to fake pants, I bet it is harder to fake boots - plus they are not so good for dancing. For dancing, leather slippers were fashionable, so modern men's ballet flats or jazz oxfords would be cool, or just wear your favorite dress-shoes for dancing.
Shirt
Find a white shirt with a collar. Done. Really, the ideal regency shirt would be along the lines of a poet's shirt - voluminous sleeves, very plain but full. If you are interested in sewing, this is a good and easy project to get started on. If you are not good at sewing, this will be one of the least visible parts of your outfit, mostly covered by other clothing. Put on the shirt, flip up the collar, and tie a neckcloth around it.Neckcloth
A spiffy cravat, or intentionally understated neckcloth if you prefer, will be indispensable. Luckily, it is just a big rectangle of white cloth (preferably linen, but work with what you have)! How do you tie it? Again, this is not so much my area of expertise. Check out this collection of descriptions here (Neckclothitania), or look at portraits and fiddle with things until you get it to look right. Just remember to pop the collar first.
Vest
I suppose I should call it a waistcoat, but I am a mid-19th century girl at heart, so I forget these things. The most critical and noticeable difference between a regency waistcoat and a modern tailcoat is the bottom edge. It should be totally flat across. This should be an easy thing to fix, by flipping the points on a modern vest up and pinning them or sewing them to the inside. The nice thing is that these early century waistcoats can be much more spiffy and fantastically colored than for their later in the century cousins, so enjoy your freedom.
Jacket
Wear a modern tailcoat. Actually, wear the most old-fashioned tailcoat you can find (if you invest in a tailcoat that is good for the 1860s now, you can wear it to this AND to the Returning Heroes Ball next month!). I am not going to give suggestions for modifications, because there are not really any easy fixes. The front should end near the waist, with an inch or two of waistcoat showing below. It should either be scooped (good for early regency), or straight across with an angle to the straight sides of the tails (good for late regency). The easiest way to identify a really good regency tailcoat is the lack of a seam at the waist, where the tails join. This became very much the norm for the mid-19th century, but was totally unheard of at this point. If your tailcoat already has this seam, there is no way to get rid of it, so just smile and ignore it. Really, in terms of getting the silhouette right, it is not so critical. In terms of colors, there is also more variation here than later in the century when men take up the all-black all-the-time approach to dressing. Still, black is very serviceable, so that is what I would personally go for. I should also warn you that most regency tailcoats were double breasted, while most modern tailcoats are meant to look single breasted AND are meant to hang open. As I said before, to be perfect you must learn to sew, but you can look good enough without.

Monday, February 7, 2011

Regency Surface Features

If you are just throwing an outfit together from your closet (hopefully for the Sense and Sensibility Bicentennial Ball this Saturday!), use my previous post and ignore this one. I promise that getting the shape right is all that really matters. On the other hand, if you are interested in more of the finer points of regency dresses (and seeing some really drool-worthy examples), today is for you. You might be able to use some of this information to improve a dress, like trims or overlays, or it might help you keep an open mind (for example, to colors) when you are in a thrift store.

Colors
Not all Regency dresses were white. A lot of them were, and they are really gorgeous. You don't need to avoid white, but you also should not feel stuck to it. In fact, a plain white dress is at best rare. That sort of gauzy dress you are imagining right now should probably have a subtle pattern woven into the fabric, or maybe a healthy dose of embroidery.
Now it is true that not all colors existed yet, or could be made into dyes for fabrics. We are talking about a period before some of the most exciting advances in dyeing technology. But don't be afraid of color. If you followed my moment of insecurity a few weeks ago, you are more than aware that yellow is a great Regency color. There really are others, too.
Check out this interesting article I found about funny color names in this period. Don't you feel more special now that you can tell people that you are wearing a coquelicot dress? And indeed, don't you feel superior just for knowing what puce looks like?

Embroidery
There is embroidery all over the place. This is probably my favorite example, though.
Overlays
Sheer gauzy fabrics were all the rage. This includes near-indecent sheer white dresses, but also cool overlays for your dresses! Check it out.
Metallic Trims
I've been seeing a lot of dresses with metallic elements - either the fabric itself, or some embroidery, or some really smashing trim!
Military Styling
Very popular, especially in a cute spencer or pelisse.Classical Influence
I have little to say on this, but just look around. The gauzy white draping? The columnar silhouette? Regency is all about the classical influences.
Mind Boggling Embellishments - A Case Study
I am totally in love with Princess Charlotte. I've already shown you a picture of her jumper dress (see Faking Regency 101 in the sleeves section). This is her bellflower dress. I don't even know what to say about it, it is just so lovely. Thanks to Vic of the Jane Austen's World blog for making these great pictures available - go here to read a whole post about this dress.

Friday, February 4, 2011

Why Mr. Darcy, I had NO IDEA!

No. This is not precisely how the dancing will go at the Sense and Sensibility Ball. But it will still be fun!

Thursday, February 3, 2011

How to Fake Regency - A Guide to the Silhouette

Right now I am suffering from Regency fever. I am so excited about the upcoming ball, and I can't stop looking at dresses and period sources. I've also realized that not everyone has the resources to get a nice reproduction dress ready at the drop of a hat. Now, lucky for those people the Commonwealth Vintage Dancers rarely require period costume for attendance to their balls. So pop on some formal outfit you have lying around and come join the dancing! Don't let the lack of the perfect costume intimidate you out of showing up - I'd be so much happier to see a lot of people having fun and learning than a few people perfectly dressed.

On the other hand, it always feels more special to be able to dress up and feel like a princess. And in a particularly nice twist of fate, the Regency silhouette is not that difficult to achieve. Once you have the silhouette right, you will have captured the feeling of a Regency outfit, even if the specifics are off. So here is a guide to faking a Regency outfit, stressing the most important elements for getting the right silhouette.

The High Waist
The most noticeable feature of Regency dresses is their artificially high waistlines (often referred to as an empire waist). If you can get this right, you have made the first step towards a good Regency silhouette. Luckily, this is not a dead fashion. I know that empire waists have been popular within the past few years, which means ideal opportunities to find something appropriate in the used clothing stores, or in your very own closet. Go look!

If you have a dress without a defined waist (don't try this if there is a defined waist lower down, though), you can add this definition by tying a plain ribbon around your ribcage. This is a very period look, and is especially spiffy if you add tassels to the ends of your ribbon. Ooh!
The Long Skirt
There is no way to avoid this. If you have an absolutely perfect Regency dress that ends at the knees, you are going to look silly. Well, actually, you will look really cute - but you will not look Regency. On the bright side, this too can be fixed! There were points in time where the "tunic" look was very fashionable indeed, so you can put together a stunning early Regency ensemble by layering your too-short high-waisted dress over a long skirt in a matching or coordinating color. If you have a really good color match (like white and white), or a nice sash to make the change less jarring, you might even layer the long skirt over the too-short dress and make it look like one long dress.
A lot of formal evening dresses in the period had trains. That is lovely, but you are unlikely to find them on modern garments. In fact, you should just count this as a blessing, as you won't have to figure out how to dance in a train (hint - it involves pinning up, removing, or otherwise securing it... too much work). So you should know they exist, but instead of worrying about replicating them, you should come dancing with me!
Sleeves of Some Description
So at this point you have a high-waisted dress with a long skirt. Unfortunately, a lot of modern dresses that will get you to this point are strapless. I am going to strongly urge you to do something about this. I have trouble thinking of anything less 19th century than a strapless dress. But never fear! There are a number of things you can do about this. If you are particularly crafty, you can always add sleeves, or at least straps. Jumpers are legitimate for Regency, though they get worn over a blouse. Short sleeves, which might be quite puffy or rather plain, are what I most commonly see, but long sleeves are also alright. No sleeves would be unacceptable, though.The good news if you are not crafty is that little jackets called "spencers" were all the rage in the Regency. I have frequently seen extra-short-waisted jackets in modern stores that would serve this purpose well. You could also wear a short bolero jacket, another style I see all the time. You might even get away with a shawl or similar covering, but if you are relying on it to cover otherwise bare shoulders for an entire evening, you are probably better off with the jacket. If you have no luck locating a short jacket, go for a long robe instead, and tie a ribbon around your ribcage and over the robe. This should provide you with sleeves, a high waist, and a tunic-style dress all at once.
An Appropriate Neckline
I add this because it matters, but there is not much you can easily do to modify this if it is wrong, so try not to worry as much about it. It is certainly a much less important structural element for building the Regency feeling than the previous three things. The good news is that the neckline styles varied over the Regency period, so you can get away with more than you might have expected. The most common style I see is the scooped neck. It is usually somewhat low-cut, and can be very low-cut, and had a nice round shape. There were also a lot of dresses with very wide square necklines. I don't even think of these as "square" necklines so much as "straight," since they look like they stretch flat across from sleeve to sleeve. Hopefully the images will help where my descriptions are failing. There were also v-necked dresses, with plunging necklines.

Wednesday, February 2, 2011

Event Announcment - Dancing with the Dashwoods

All the balls that the Commonwealth Vintage Dancers run are fun and beautiful, but this one is going to be particularly special. First of all, I will be teaching, so I am particularly excited. Second of all, we are working with lovely musicians in a perfect hall (the Salem Old Town Hall was built in 1816!). Also, it is still kind of early, and we already have a lot of registrations. So if you haven't registered, I suggest you get right to it (just in case we run out of space - anyone who went to Fezziwig's ball knows it is possible to hit capacity on this hall). Here are the details, and as always go to vintagedancers.org for more information, or write to query@vintagedancers.org for questions.

You are Cordially Invited
to the

Sense and Sensibility
Bicentennial Ball

Saturday, February 12, 2011
Salem’s Old Town Hall

32 Derby Square, Salem, MA

Workshop 4 to 6 pm
Ball 8 to 11 pm

Live Music by
Jaqueline Schwab and Eden MacAdam-Somer

ADMISSION
General $25
Students (with id) $15
($5 surcharge after Friday February 11)
Please inquire for group rates

Tuesday, February 1, 2011

The Original Gingerbread Trilobites

Check out this cool thing. First of all, this looks like a 5th CD of papers about trilobites. That means there are more papers about trilobites than I ever knew about. Cool! But more importantly, on CD 5 there is an article about really old gingerbread molds in the shape of trilobites! I'm quoting here from that website (DIRT - the Denman Institute for Research on Trilobites - I am so glad this exists, so go check it out):

Trilobites as Gingerbread Molds

Irena Jancarikova & Ivo Chlupac
Charles University, Prague

The Museum of Bohemian Karst in the town of Beroun southwest of Prague (Barrandian area, Czech Republic) possesses in its ethnographical collections two gingerbread molds in the form of trilobites. The first mold (Figure 1) is made of nut wood, measuring 22 by 11 cm. It represents a precisely cut exoskeleton of the Lower Devonian trilobite Odontochile rugosa Hawle and Corda, 1847. The carved image corresponds closely to actual specimens -- only the pygidial border is lacking. The second mold (Figure 2) is made of lime wood, measuring 16.5 by 8.5 cm. It was probably also based on an exoskeleton of Odontochile, but the model appears to have been a counterfeit specimen made by assembling a retouched cephalon and an incomplete thorax and pygidium. Such counterfeits were commonly produced by quarrymen in the Beroun district during the last decade of the 19th and the beginning of the 20th century and sold to gullible private collectors who were largely interested in complete specimens.

These two wooden trilobite gingerbread molds are true rarities. They exemplify the deep-rooted tradition of trilobite collecting in the Barrandian area -- a tradition here seen to extend into everyday objects in the life of the local people.