Thursday, January 27, 2011

Steampunk 101: What is Steampunk?

My previous post was a rather philosophical approach to Steampunk style, and I realized that a lot of people haven't come across the concept at all before. So now, I present to you a basic overview of the fashion elements that are most frequently seen in "steampunk," with some narration from me about why I think these elements have come up and whether or not they make sense. So here is a crash course in the most recognizable elements of Steampunk fashion.

1) GogglesSteampunk is about adventure and science. Goggles protect your eyes from both adventure and science. They are an easily recognizable and particularly fashionable indicator of your dangerous, eye-compromising lifestyle. There is even variety in the style of goggles, making them ideal both as fashion accessories and as emblems of pride for your Steampunk life. Aviators and airship pirates wear aviator goggles, while serious engineers wear welding goggles, and the more polite segments of society wear more decorative and delicate versions. Goggles are obviously practical, and yet Steampunk goggles are usually decorated and unusual. Semi-practical objects which are excessively complicated (and probably designed by a mad scientist or a mad seamstress) are very Steampunk indeed.
2) Gears
There are three reasons to incorporate gears into your clothing for Steampunk. The first is gears which do, or appear to do, something. This is obviously fitting because of the obsession with mechanics and science. If any part of your outfit is or is made to look like a machine with gears and moving parts, fantastic. Reason two for using a gear motif is if you like the look even though you do not really have any mechanical wonders under your belt (or on your belt, or attached to your skirt, etc). Steampunk is a society obsessed with the gear motif, often beyond the point that I can understand. This is why you can get away with reason three - apparently you can sell things if you sprinkle on some gears and call it Steampunk. I have seen this done well, but I have also seen completely mundane items "Steampunked" by the addition of a couple of gears or gear appliques. I honestly can't explain why this works, but I guess it does.3) Clocks
I honestly believe that clocks are only Steampunk because gears are. Timepieces, especially pocket watches, are the most 19th century and most easily portable machines that are easily available. Now combine the convenience of a watch with a fascination for gears and mechanics, and you get the trend for exposed watch-movements and watch-themed jewelry (also, I think the fact that you can buy these things at Urban Outfitters doesn't hurt). Really, though, I would be interested to hear if anyone thinks they have a more fundamental reason for clocks and timepieces being so popular in the Steampunk aesthetic. I think it must be a continuation of the gear fascination, plus some convenience and 19th century influence.4) Wings
Wings are an increasing trend, from what I have seen. I think this is a combination of delight with mechanical objects, and the interest in aviators and adventure. It is neat if you are so much of an adventurous aviator that you have a personal flying machine, and it is only better if you are also enough of a scientist to have built those wings yourself.5) Brass, brown, and leather
Which came first, the chicken or the egg? Which came first in Steampunk fashion, the machines and goggles or the color scheme? I vote for the color scheme being secondary, but it is so pervasive that I hesitate. A lot of people only recognize Steampunk by the color scheme of brown, brown, and brass. Still, brown, brass, and leather look really good with goggles, the ultimate Steampunk staple, as well as with other favorites like gears and machines. At least it makes sense.By the way, a side comment here. You may or may not have heard people say "Steampunk is what happens when Goths discover brown." I think this is a very entertaining phrase, but also an inaccurate one. I think the overlap in the two styles of dress is based on the shared source material - the 19th century. Top hats (we'll get to those later) are Steampunk because they are 19th century. Top hats are Goth because they are 19th century. Top hats are not Steampunk because they are Goth. Be careful with the logic, or you'll have Goth bands printing their T-shirts on brown backgrounds so they will be Steampunk. This is ridiculous and unfashionable. So there!
6) Buckles
Buckles look practical for adventuring, but decorative for fashion, and also sensible for strapping on machines and scientific gear. They look good made of brass, on straps of leather, over brown clothes. At this point I hope it makes sense, then, that buckles are Steampunk.
7) Nerf gunsThese modified toy weapons look like tools of adventure, but designed by deranged scientists. They look practical and excessively complex. They are certainly Steampunk in that respect. They also appeal to the do-it-yourself nature of much of Steampunk, which might explain why they are just so popular and far-reaching.
8) Top hatsIn the 19th century, these would have been worn by gentlemen daily. In the modern day, they are practically never seen. This makes them a nice and obvious fashion indicator that you are being old fashioned. They are also an excellent perch for goggles (for while you always see goggles on Steampunk enthusiasts, you rarely see them actually worn over the eyes in the heat of science). Women, while they would certainly have worn hats, would not likely have worn top hats, so this also appeals to the idea of doing the 19th century, but somehow a little off or wrong.9) Miniature top hatsI don't understand this. I saw these mini top hats in Gothic Lolita fashion long before I saw them appear in Steampunk, so I worry that these have shown up in a "Steampunk is what happens when Goths discover brown" kind of way. I just don't see the reasoning for why these are particularly Steampunk, although I could totally see vendors of Gothic Lolita miniature top hats identifying Steampunk as the cash cow it is and trying the "dye it brown, slap on some gears, and call it Steampunk" style of marketing. Anyway, given how much I have been seeing this trend I thought I would mention it, but if anyone can explain it to me better I would be happy to hear.
10) Bustles, hoops, and corsetsThe Steampunk triumvirate is Science, Adventure, and the 19th Century. These foundational garments are 19th century engineering marvels in their own right (there's two parts). Now if you wear them exposed or on the outside, doing the 19th century but wrong, this implies that your lifestyle is too adventurous for you to wear your clothes correctly. That's all three! Or at least, that is my take on it. It might just be spill-over (pun not initially intended) from renfaires and science fiction conventions where women think it is a grand idea to wear ill-fitting corsets, simultaneously proving their alternative-ness and hiking their bosoms up to eye level for easy viewing. But I hope it is about science, adventure, and the 19th century.

Wednesday, January 26, 2011

My Philosophy of Steampunk Dress

Robin asked me some questions (in response to my bustle posts) so good that I thought I would handle this in an actual post. Of course, then I didn't get around to actually posting it. Mostly, let us boil this question down to "What is Steampunk (in terms of clothing)?" First, a disclaimer: Steampunk is often about do-it-yourself-ness (and then sometimes it isn't!), and there is huge variation in how the term is used. Anyone can call something Steampunk, so I dare not claim to be an expert on what Steampunk is. Instead, I present my vision of what Steampunk should be.
The theory of Steampunk that I support is an alternative history, where steam technology in the 19th century allowed for incredible machinery and futuristic technology to develop beyond what happened in reality. In my mind, then, Steampunk is a best-parts version of history (usually the 1870-80s to be extra specific, but I count anything in the 19th century as fair game) with a heavy dose of science and machinery thrown in. In terms of clothing, then, my favored approach is to start with something legitimately 19th century, then make it in a strange fabric or add science-y or mechanical details. A bustle dress plus goggles says you are a 19th century woman... who might also build incredible steam machines. A tailcoat plus a mechanical arm means you are a 19th century gentleman... who lost his arm in battle and now sports an incredible steam-powered killing machine in its place.
I say there are two basic options. You could go heavy on the technology, building fantastical theoretical steam machines to wear or amazing metal and leather accoutrement. Personally, I am not talented in this area, so unless I want to buy things (check out Brute Force Leather for some great examples of this approach), I will never look truly stunning. The second option, more within my grasp, is to do the 19th century well with an amazing and mostly accurate ensemble, then accessorize and branch out with things that are not accurate. I personally love the idea of having a great 19th century dress which is historically accurate to wear to a ball, but which is fun enough to wear for Steampunk. One outfit, with a multitude of opportunities for wearing it. On the other hand, I also like how friendly Steampunk is, with its lack of rules (despite everything I have just said).
So, in direct response to Robin, I see two ways to use the bustles I had collected pictures of. One is to wear them correctly, under appropriate clothes, for the 1870s-1880s silhouette. You may stop there, or accessorize with fantastical or mechanical or scientific accessories. The other way is to wear them inappropriately for the 19th century, because for steampunk that is OK. For example, you could wear an exposed bustle, which would be scandalous and inappropriate in the real 19th century, but might be quite reasonable in your Steampunk alternative history. You might be an Airship Pirate, with an eye towards fashion but unable to wear long skirts while climbing in the rigging of your steam-powered war-zeppelin. You might be a Steampunk Saloon Girl, scantly clad while you serve drinks to rowdy scientists and mechanics. Perhaps you are a well-bred 19th century lady, but you've taken to a life of Steampunk adventures and so you do whatever you please, which happens to be walking around in your underwear (after all, a chemise, corset, and bustle can be fairly presentable). Who is to stop you?
So some steampunk clothes have little to do with history, while some are close cousins of 19th century clothing. My heart belongs to the 19th century, so for me Steampunk is a just a nice outlet to do things that are "wrong" for real history (like make a pattern-test dress out of shiny synthetic polyester). For other people Steampunk is an ever-evolving concept, completely separate from its initial Victorian inspirations. I have told you what I like , but I do not mean to suggest that is the only way - just my favorite.
Regardless, if any of this spoke to you, you should probably come to the Technocrat's Ball in Porter Square this Saturday. Hit your closet, pull out something cool, and wear it proudly. After all, all it really takes to be Steampunk is attitude.

Tuesday, January 25, 2011

The Technocrat's Ball


The Technocrat's Ball is this Saturday, so you only have a few more days to buy your tickets at the advance purchase price!

Admission is just $25, or $15 for students when purchased by January 28 ($5 more at the door), and includes a dance workshop from 3:00-5:00PM on Saturday afternoon.

Saturday, January 29, 2011
Masonic Hall
1950 Mass Ave, Cambridge, MA
(opposite Porter Sq. Shopping Area)

Workshop 3-5 pm
Ball 7-10:30 pm

Monday, January 24, 2011

Lady Gaga Reads Peterson's Ladies' Magazine

Peterson's Ladies' Magazine, October 1870. Does it look familiar?

Saturday, December 18, 2010

Jacob Ochtervelt

At the moment I have several higher priority things to deal with, but in a vague way I do intend to get around to making some 1670-80s clothes (so I can hang out with pirates at Pioneer Village). Unfortunately, this is neither my time period of expertise nor one that appeals to me that much, and I was having a difficult time finding examples of things I like. But that was before I discovered Jacob Ochtervelt. Check out these cool paintings.

The Music Lesson, 1671

Buying Grapes, 1669

The Love Letter, early 1670s

Family Portrait, 1670-75

De Speellieden, 1682

Lady with Servant and Dog, 1671-73

A Musical Company, 1670

The Backgammon Players, 1667-69

The Lemon Slice

An interior with two elegant ladies making their toilet together with a maid making the bed and a dog on a chair

The Drawing Lesson

Friday, December 17, 2010

Unusual Muffs for Winter

I took an exam today, so I am not competent to write much. But in honor of the cold, here are some of my favorite unusual muffs.

Muffs that are pretty embroidered silk, and not fur!

Muffs that are strangely wiggly!
And my favorite category: Muffs that look like you are carrying a dead animal around!

Thursday, December 16, 2010

One More Yellow Regency Dress

You know, for good measure. This one is in the McCord Museum.

Wednesday, December 15, 2010

A Further Study In Bustles - The 1880s

These are 1880s bustles. As you can see, they have a similar pattern. There are the dull hoop-type bustles, the mummy-bustles, and the narrow bustles just in the back in casings. The interesting part is that there are also some stranger and more fascinating short bustles. I know it is a lot of pictures to scroll through, but make sure you get that far because they are cool.

Plain hoops.Mummy-style bustle


Casings, all the bustle in the back.
Short bustles! I adore them.